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  • Rotary power

    ROTARY power!!!! ok i own a n/a fc3s and need more power!!!! ok should i beef up the current motor(110k miles) or jus find a turbo 2 motor?

  • #2
    if it was my car i would put in a t2 motor, but thats just me. i luv t2s tehy are so much mor ereliable than fds cuz the engine is so much simpler with the one turbo. and the gp sports kit on an fc is drop dead gorgeous

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BlueDragon871
      if it was my car i would put in a t2 motor, but thats just me. i luv t2s tehy are so much mor ereliable than fds cuz the engine is so much simpler with the one turbo. and the gp sports kit on an fc is drop dead gorgeous
      Christ yes! what is it about that kit? and that one pic of it, the black one, slung so low, dear god it's beautiful.

      honest opinion. If you have the cash and drive frequently, start building what you've got, if you see satisfying gains, stick with it. if you aren't happy, go tII. I just personally think it's more fun to build what you have, since you get more "real time" results. It's a good learning experiance, and you get to talk to the car and build off of what area/component it needs next. just my 27 cents.

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      • #4
        The N/A 13B engine is actually pretty weak sauce compared to the older 12A and 13A.

        The problem lies in the N/A 13B's six port design as compared to the turbo 13B's (and the 12A/13A's) four port design. The six port engine had far less compression, more of a tendency to burn oil (and apex seals, mind you) and cannot be ported out as big as the four port engines (therefore reducing its power potential).

        In reality, most all of the N/A FC RX7's you see in the SCCA use the old SA22C RX7's 12A engine because of its greater power potential and superior reliability. Rarely do I say an engine swap is anything but a last ditch effort for more power, but in the case of the FC it is almost mandatory to hunt down a four port turbo engine.

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        • #5
          Also keep in mind when you drop in the TII engine and its turbo, you have to swap over more then just the engine. It can be fairly expensive, id suggest just selling your car and buying a TII to save yourself time and hassle, unless you can get the parts at a DAMN good price and do the work cheaply- or this car is your "baby" and cant stand to part with it.

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          • #6
            idk ive read about converting the fc motors to a 4 port design, and some thing called bridge porting, but this will cost me 2000 easy but will also put me in the 300 hp range or jus short, idk a 20b wouldnt be bad either.....but so hard to find and parts (im asuming) are probobly expensive as all hell

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            • #7
              a 20b fc would be a monster, but i think i'd like to see a 20b in an fc more than any mazda. I've always seen the fc as the big brutish brother to the little boy, the older gen savannah's. The fd is sort of like the friggin hot girlfriend. I think the fc would be hot with a 20b 'cause it has that "giant sled" sort of feeling. And i want to say "oh well it'd be to heavy" but it's still pretty small, so, i dunno man, do it and then take pictures for all us poor boys to drool over.

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              • #8
                Here you are:

                http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg25.htm

                This sick FC has a 20B in... I personally would prefer a highly tubed naturally aspirated rotary than a mildly tuned turbo, despite the lower power that NA generates. I think it sticks to the FC's style better than turbo (not mentioning about 20B's stock twins). The Amemiya Aspara Drink RX7 uses an NA 20B, which has turbos and all the hardware taken out.

                - D.

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                • #9
                  Rx7s are some of the few cars i love to be turbo.

                  The FC was built to be turbo in japan, it should be here as well IMO, that hood just looks hawt. And the FD on twin turbo, very nice feel to it (though ive only had the pleasure of being in one a couple times)

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                  • #10
                    tag

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Octagon
                      The N/A 13B engine is actually pretty weak sauce compared to the older 12A and 13A.

                      The problem lies in the N/A 13B's six port design as compared to the turbo 13B's (and the 12A/13A's) four port design. The six port engine had far less compression, more of a tendency to burn oil (and apex seals, mind you) and cannot be ported out as big as the four port engines (therefore reducing its power potential).

                      In reality, most all of the N/A FC RX7's you see in the SCCA use the old SA22C RX7's 12A engine because of its greater power potential and superior reliability. Rarely do I say an engine swap is anything but a last ditch effort for more power, but in the case of the FC it is almost mandatory to hunt down a four port turbo engine.
                      I'm curious as to where you've aquired your information. Im not familiar with seeing anyone run 12a's or 13a's in NA fcs.

                      Edit on to topic: The only deciding factor should be your goals for power or driving. A turbo car will yield more power/decreasing longevity, be less responsive, and will cost more throughout the process. An na will provide less power/last longer (depending on how radical of a port you ever get to :P don't expect a pp or bridge to retain crazy high longevity), will be more responsive, and will be less of a money consuming project, depending on how much power your trying to pull out.
                      Last edited by P1STON2ROTARY; 09-18-2004, 03:12 PM.

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                      • #12
                        well in all honesty im not looking for a ridiculous amount of power, just enough to create uber amounts of tire smoke (hee hee) im also on a 7 dollarts an hour budget soo i think im gonna go with the 4 port conversion and a street porting, as im finding out super street ran an article specifically for the fc//fd and how to pork em up, thanks all for the input

                        Ps im still savin for a the 20b!

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                        • #13
                          Get a full exhaust. From the headers through with no cats, you'll gain so much HP it's ridiculous. Don't do a swap unless it's absolutly necessary. Good luck dude.

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                          • #14
                            On an NA fc, id be hapyp to get around 200 whp...

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                            • #15
                              Piston2Rotary, my primary experience with rotaries comes from the people I see at the Valvoline Runoffs each year at Mid-Ohio. I'm primarily an SCCA guy with a lot of short track background.

                              The SCCA, in its club divisions, has a long standing history of hatred towards anything turbocharged (stemming back to when the Audi/Porsche/Penske collaboration that produced the Porsche 917-30 destroyed the Can-Am series) and thus imposes very VERY strict limitations on turbocharging that move turboed cars up classes and renders them uncompetitive.

                              For instance, there are several very competitive KA24DE powered S14's and S13's in the GT3 class. However, if you were to transplant an SR20DET into those cars, you'd be slapped with boost limiters, weight handicaps, and be forced to run GT1 against mostly ex-IMSA GTO and ex-SCCA Trans-Am cars, and I don't care what you import guys say - an SR20DET powered tube chassis 240SX is going to lose out against a Huffaker or Riley & Scott built silohouette Camaro.

                              As such, in order to stay within class limitiations and still be competitive, many competitors actually go to older engines. I know of one FC roadster in GT3 that runs with a 12A. It's white with a cutdown lexan wraparound windshield and a targa rollbar.

                              I also know of a Nissan 300ZX in GT2 that actually is powered by a Rebello-built L28. This car is for sale, actually, at www.race-cars.com




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