"DRIFT TRUCK" Im gonna Do It!!! Goods and Bads?

[eomund240]

Very nice. Can't wait to see more.

[Toycoma]

Justin, if you want coil overs on the front, there is an easier way then doing them like the garage miniz trucks. I along with a few other guys have QA-1 coilovers in the front of our tacomas. You could ditch the torsion bar setup in the hard body and beef up the lower control arms and run the QA1 stuff.

Here are some pics and info
Current springs are 565lb/in but I might have to go up to a 650 spring. I have cheap wanli 215/45/17s still on the wheels (wheels are 17x9 +27) but should switch them out to a 225/45/17 595 feds since I have a set of those. I also bought a set of the new Kumho XS tires in a 245/45/17.





Front leaf spring hangers and front crossmember have less then 3" of clearance.

I couldnt get a better pic of the sus with my phone.


My autox and maybe drift & time attack setup
245/45/17 Kumho XS tires on 17x9 +35 rims.
I would like to go lower but the tires hit in the inner fenders on bumps. Plus I have no preload on the coil overs, so I would need a helper spring to help keep the coil spring in place when I jack it up.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

Justin, if you want coil overs on the front, there is an easier way then doing them like the garage miniz trucks. I along with a few other guys have QA-1 coilovers in the front of our tacomas. You could ditch the torsion bar setup in the hard body and beef up the lower control arms and run the QA1 stuff.

Here are some pics and info
Current springs are 565lb/in but I might have to go up to a 650 spring. I have cheap wanli 215/45/17s still on the wheels (wheels are 17x9 +27) but should switch them out to a 225/45/17 595 feds since I have a set of those. I also bought a set of the new Kumho XS tires in a 245/45/17.





Front leaf spring hangers and front crossmember have less then 3" of clearance.

I couldnt get a better pic of the sus with my phone.


My autox and maybe drift & time attack setup
245/45/17 Kumho XS tires on 17x9 +35 rims.
I would like to go lower but the tires hit in the inner fenders on bumps. Plus I have no preload on the coil overs, so I would need a helper spring to help keep the coil spring in place when I jack it up.

OHHH, I love that QA1 idea! I wish I had five lug hubs on my truck so I could have better wheel options.

Unfortunately, I'm going to be on a hold for modifications for about three months. I've decided to pay off a credit card to free up more funds for myself. I've also decided that the V6 will be too much of a hassle right now and am looking to trade them both for a KA24DE. I feel it's a fair trade, but we'll see.

[Toycoma]

I think the KA is the better choice. they actually came in later model hardbody nissans. I would get one from a s14 240 along with the ecu or use that stand alone so you can rev it to 7,000. the truck KAs might not rev as high but I have no idea for sure.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

I think the KA is the better choice. they actually came in later model hardbody nissans. I would get one from a s14 240 along with the ecu or use that stand alone so you can rev it to 7,000. the truck KAs might not rev as high but I have no idea for sure.

Truck KAs were single cams, so it's like a S13. I've put them out on the forums and craigslist.

What model QA1 did you use?

[Toycoma]

GMP-1450 but I got them with out the 450 lb/in 10 inch long springs and ordered the ms565 springs. You need to find a company or talk to qa1 direct and find out what to get since your truck does not use a coil spring in the front like the tacoma does.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

GMP-1450 but I got them with out the 450 lb/in 10 inch long springs and ordered the ms565 springs. You need to find a company or talk to qa1 direct and find out what to get since your truck does not use a coil spring in the front like the tacoma does.

Yeah, I'd have to also fab up an upper spring bucket, too. But, I think the solution to that would be to cut off and weld on the buckets from a Tacoma or something.

[Toycoma]

they have a coil overs that has a piece of metal to hold the top of the spring in place. you don't need to run the same style coil psring that I am running.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

they have a coil overs that has a piece of metal to hold the top of the spring in place. you don't need to run the same style coil psring that I am running.

That would make it easier.

I'm going to have to get tubular upper control arms, though. I have about less than 1/4" of space between the shock and the stamped UCA. I think the LCA will just need thicker ears for the lower shock mount.

You also running QA1s in the rear?

[Toycoma]

I plan on running the star stockers or what ever they are called once I have the money. I plan on getting the double adjustable shocks though. I am sticking with leaf springs because of the classes I want to run in autox and maybe time attack.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

I plan on running the star stockers or what ever they are called once I have the money. I plan on getting the double adjustable shocks though. I am sticking with leaf springs because of the classes I want to run in autox and maybe time attack.

Trying to stay in a "street" type class?

[Toycoma]

yeah. SM2 for autox. Plus I can go turbo in that class.

[eomund240]

I agree that the KA is the better choice. And there's nothin wrong with the single cam, and I'll kill anyone who says there is . But in all seriousness, I think it would work great. The main thing that'll make things a little difficult is finding a wiring harness in reasonable condition. Damn things are hard to find these days.

One question I have though. what will droping the front end do to the linkage. I've no experience with it myself, but I've read that lowering a vehicle too much can make some of the angles on everything too extreme and can cause both strength and hadeling issues. I'm just curious if that has any validity in this case being as you're lowering something that was allready pretty tall to begin with (at least compared to a car).

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by eomund240

One question I have though. what will droping the front end do to the linkage. I've no experience with it myself, but I've read that lowering a vehicle too much can make some of the angles on everything too extreme and can cause both strength and hadeling issues. I'm just curious if that has any validity in this case being as you're lowering something that was allready pretty tall to begin with (at least compared to a car).

It can, but I can take and shim the UCAs to correct for camber (no drilling required!! poking fun at the McPherson Strut guys). Steering angle, however will be affected and bump steer will be a problem, unless I swap to a 2" spindle, which raises the kingpin up 2" which lowers the front 2" and keeps all of the mounting points the same.

[Toycoma]

yup, beat me too it. Most trucks can be lowered 5-6 inches easily by installing a drop spindle and some kind of lowering spring.

[Toycoma]

Originally Posted by Justin Banner

It can, but I can take and shim the UCAs to correct for camber (no drilling required!! poking fun at the McPherson Strut guys). Steering angle, however will be affected and bump steer will be a problem, unless I swap to a 2" spindle, which raises the kingpin up 2" which lowers the front 2" and keeps all of the mounting points the same.

would the spindles be custom built?? If yes, you can also plan to have the steering knuckle shorted where the tie rod bolts to the spindle so you can then increase steering angle.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by Toycoma

would the spindles be custom built?? If yes, you can also plan to have the steering knuckle shorted where the tie rod bolts to the spindle so you can then increase steering angle.

I've been debating on custom spindles. I can go to Stock Car Products and get on made between $240-250. However, it would probably be made for a 5 on 5 hub. I'm going to contact them to be sure, though, but that will also be a couple of months away.

Just a note, for lowering spindle that is cast made is $275.

Also, since you guys have more experience on KA24DEs, I have a line on one in Winston Salem, but has spun the bearing on #4. Is this actually all that's going to be wrong or are there going to be more problems? I know a spun bearing can be fixed and be fine if I replace all of the bearings, but will there be any specific problems I need to be concerned about.

[eomund240]

Well, It's all about how much you're willing to pay. Depending on what you're spending on this one (I'm hoping it's dirt cheap), a spun bearing as you said isn't all that big of a problem. You can however get a good running one for seriously like 300 bucks if you want to start with something a little better. Check around on some forums a bit just to get an idea of what's out there if you're curious at all about it.

One thing to consiter though, if you're getting this engine for pretty much nothin', you have one big plus in your favor. You have the chance to take an engine rebuild to the next step. Pistons, rods, even a port and polish job if you're up to it.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by eomund240

Well, It's all about how much you're willing to pay. Depending on what you're spending on this one (I'm hoping it's dirt cheap), a spun bearing as you said isn't all that big of a problem. You can however get a good running one for seriously like 300 bucks if you want to start with something a little better. Check around on some forums a bit just to get an idea of what's out there if you're curious at all about it.

One thing to consiter though, if you're getting this engine for pretty much nothin', you have one big plus in your favor. You have the chance to take an engine rebuild to the next step. Pistons, rods, even a port and polish job if you're up to it.

I'm trying to get it as a trade for my two VG30Es (one complete, one spare) plus cash.

[eomund240]

I don't know how available KA's are in your area, but it kinda sounds like he's getting the better end of the deal (If you're the one fronting the cash I mean). Just my opinion though. Out of curiosity, are you getting a 5 speed with it too?

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by eomund240

I don't know how available KA's are in your area, but it kinda sounds like he's getting the better end of the deal (If you're the one fronting the cash I mean). Just my opinion though. Out of curiosity, are you getting a 5 speed with it too?

Yeah, I'm getting the money.

No transmission, but I've been told that KA D21 transmissions will bolt up to S13/14 engines.

[eomund240]

Ah, okay, If that's the case it's more on the fair side. I think you're right on the tranny bolt up. Infact I think, don't quote me on this, even the bellhousing will bolt up. Main reason I ask is the trucks more often than not are running a wide ratio 4 speed with an overdrive gear, vs the S13's 5 speed.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by eomund240

Ah, okay, If that's the case it's more on the fair side. I think you're right on the tranny bolt up. Infact I think, don't quote me on this, even the bellhousing will bolt up. Main reason I ask is the trucks more often than not are running a wide ratio 4 speed with an overdrive gear, vs the S13's 5 speed.

I see. The guy hasn't gotten back to me yet and the forums I'm looking on that would have guys in VA are asking for $5-800 for a good, running KA24DE.

[eomund240]

Depending on the KA, that's a little on the steep side. Around here in Cali they usually go for around $300-$500 give or take. But do keep in mind I paid 800 bucks for a motor 'cause I had a guarantee it had 40,000 miles on it.

I think getting one that needs some work is the way to go though, especially with how much work your project will need. It'll give you the opportunity to upgrade while you're in to it.

Keep us posted on what you decide.

[Justin Banner]

Originally Posted by eomund240

Depending on the KA, that's a little on the steep side. Around here in Cali they usually go for around $300-$500 give or take. But do keep in mind I paid 800 bucks for a motor 'cause I had a guarantee it had 40,000 miles on it.

I think getting one that needs some work is the way to go though, especially with how much work your project will need. It'll give you the opportunity to upgrade while you're in to it.

Keep us posted on what you decide.

Not sure yet. The engine needs to be bored out .020". That will require new pistons or just rings? It's been so long since I've messed with boring an engine out I've forgot.