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Manual Boost controllers, shady???

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  • Manual Boost controllers, shady???

    does anyone have any expirience with manual boost controllers?
    I just got one off ebay, but i have heard that they dont protect very well from boost creep, and i dont really want to destroy my engine over a few punds of boost.

    So, manual boost controllers, good or bad?

  • #2
    It depends on what type you have. I've heard that some are spikey. I've had the TurboXS High Performance one in my WRX for two years now with no issues.

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    • #3
      I use a GFB atomic bleed valve in my Cefiro and it dosen't seem to spike or cause any problems. Dunno if you can get em in the US.

      http://www.gofastbits.com.au/index.p..._option=atomic

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      • #4
        i got one of those ebay ones that were prob. assembled from hardware store parts, but it is a ball and spring type though.

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        • #5
          ball and spring bleeds suck *Censored**Censored**Censored*, avoid em if you can.

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          • #6
            It is important with the controllers to have a boost gauge. Without a half-way okay gauge...DON'T use a cheapo controller. In a pinch I have used this:

            A controller as ghetto as that will work fine on a short-term basis as long as you keep an eye on the gauge.
            Last edited by phantasm; 02-20-2005, 01:19 AM.

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            • #7
              goddamn that's ghetto...

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              • #8
                Yup....sure is, but it works.

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                • #9
                  Thats what we call resourceful, really resourceful haha. Ghetto fab.

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                  • #10
                    Cliffnotes:
                    Manual boost controller with ball and spring are GOOD, not peaky, no creep.
                    Bleeder valves simply bleed off boost pressure and are peaky and NOT GOOD, will create boost spikes and boost creep.

                    ball and spring is not to be confused with a "bleeder valve". A bleeder valve bleeds off boost pressure to the wastegate actuator, so like lets say your wastegate actuator opens the wastegate normally at 9 psi, well to run 14 psi with a bleed valve you would need to bleed off 5 lbs of boost... those are VERY peaky...

                    Now a ball and spring type holds the boost pressure at the ball bearing, so the wastegate actuator see's nothing, untill the boost pressure is high enough to push the ball bearing back, then it puts boost pressure to the wastegate actuator and your wastegate opens...
                    i probobly made no sense to the guys who don't understand how this stuff works... but if you have a real question about this stuff then PM me...

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                    • #11
                      TireFrier has that right. I have used on my personal cars, and tuned on customer cars everything from a pet-store aquarium bleeder valve to the latest greatest DSBCs and the like, and I can tell you that I have never had a problem with the boostvalve.com manual boost controller. You don't have the same range of functionality as you would with fuzzy-logic dual solenoid controller, but then again, you also have simplicity and absolute reliability on your side. Ever spent $500 on a fancy little electronic box only to have it die and not only cost a fortune to replace, but also risk blowing your engine?

                      Seriously, manual boost controllers are fine as long as you buy something quality like the one from road race engineering or boostvalve.com or the like.

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                      • #12
                        anyone ever had problems with the turboXS Standard MBC's???

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                        • #13
                          if you lok above some guy said hes had it on his wrx for 2 years.

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