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will a ca18det bolt into s14?

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  • will a ca18det bolt into s14?

    alright so i have a 96 s14 and was looking to engine swap, was going to do sr20 but then learned about the ca18det. opinions on which is better for the daily driver wanting alot of power for little cash haha (which is why i was interested in ca18 since its cheaper). and will the ca18 bolt in just as well as the sr20?

  • #2
    your kidding right?



    incase you have noticed the ca is a 1.8 you wont be very happy with it in a larger car like that.

    please do your research before you spend money on something you wont be happy with.

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    • #3
      but you pay a lot more money for 30 more ponies. you could do little work and achieve the same hp as sr20 right?

      correct me if i am wrong im new to the nismo scene.

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      • #4
        consider yourself corrected.
        nissan quit using the ca in change for the sr for a reason. im not a die hard sr fan either.

        its official. bad idea.

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        • #5
          alright.

          thanks for the help i just figured it wouldnt be too hard get that power out of a turbo'd engine.

          plus im on a tight budget.

          i had a honda so i know that stuff but then i decided to get a real car lol. so i went with s14 haha.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by drifting-s14 View Post
            alright.

            thanks for the help i just figured it wouldnt be too hard get that power out of a turbo'd engine.

            plus im on a tight budget.

            i had a honda so i know that stuff but then i decided to get a real car lol. so i went with s14 haha.



            no offense to anybody that is rocking one. some can be fast.

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            • #7
              the S14's curb weight is only like 150-200lbs more than an S13 its not that much, i mean its not like he's throwing it into a tank(MA70) or something

              yeah it will bolt in but the wiring will be the issue since your car is a 96 you will have to convert the car to OBD1 for everything to work plus you will have to work with the gauge cluster to make it display everything right, its like swaping an S13 SR into a OBD2 S14 really

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              • #8
                for power on a budget I would say screw the CA/SR and just go KA-t. A simple KA-t with t3 turbo, fuel pump, rising rate FPR, and MHG will net you around 240 rwhp at 8 psi. great daily with a load of more torque than either SR or CA. This kind of kit can be DIY for under 1.5k. FMIC and some DIY piping is needed as well.

                If your really broke you can fab up a T28 turbo set up with a SR side mount intercooler for about 1k but you'll net about 220 hp and probly wish you spent the extra moneys on the T3 set up.

                Just my opinion - but the KA-t is very reliable if done correctly.
                Last edited by akuma S14; 03-26-2008, 04:22 AM. Reason: I love me some KA-t

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by akuma S14 View Post
                  for power on a budget I would say screw the CA/SR and just go KA-t. A simple KA-t with t3 turbo, fuel pump, rising rate FPR, and MHG will net you around 240 rwhp at 8 psi. great daily with a load of more torque than either SR or CA. This kind of kit can be DIY for under 1.5k. FMIC and some DIY piping is needed as well.

                  If your really broke you can fab up a T28 turbo set up with a SR side mount intercooler for about 1k but you'll net about 220 hp and probly wish you spent the extra moneys on the T3 set up.

                  Just my opinion - but the KA-t is very reliable if done correctly.

                  i like my ka and it does have pretty good hp for a NA engine but it needs a rebuild and i have found rebuild kits from $600-$1000. so it would be that + turbo + intercooler + a lil more. so unless i wanted to get a SSAutoCrap kit then wouldnt the SR be a better swap for me???

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                  • #10
                    the SS autochrome manifold works great. I have used one for a long time and never had any problems. I have seen one crack in a few hours..... but I have also seen a tomei manifold crack in a few hours.
                    I am pro KA-t because if you blow the motor you can buy one for cheap. and they are easy to find. I would recommend using a metal head gasket when you do your rebuild. But for the money you'll still end up with more power from a KA-t than and SR swap. a stock SR red top might give you 180 rwhp vs KA-t at 240rwhp!

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                    • #11
                      CA is great...

                      I am building a CA for my wife's 240. Contrary to popular local belief the CA can be a great engine. I don't believe much in the KA as a turbo engine with its current stock pistons. The CA's major con is that it is hard to get parts for. If you have an aftermarket manifold for one, don't get rid of it. You can bolt a stock S15 turbo to the CA manifold too. I have most of the parts needed to make a CA work already sourced out. If you like more info you can find me on here or email me. ernie@erniefixmer.com
                      Ernie Fixmer
                      Formula Drift/VR Motoring/Robinson Helicopter
                      Lakewood, CA 90712

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                      • #12
                        theres always the rb20 as an option (but not my favorite swap) dont underestimate the stock ka24 i have 10:1 pistons and some reground intake came i got from a friend and it pulls hard. you can make a ka-t (7psi) that will pull on a stock sr for 600-1000 bucks.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by caseyman4285 View Post
                          theres always the rb20 as an option (but not my favorite swap) dont underestimate the stock ka24 i have 10:1 pistons and some reground intake came i got from a friend and it pulls hard. you can make a ka-t (7psi) that will pull on a stock sr for 600-1000 bucks.
                          RB20 and CA18 are both iron block... The RB is a little easier to find parts for but the KA-t option is still less expensive and plenty of people have been running them with no problems. I have only had real problems with one particular engine and it was becasue I used a cheap adj. fuel regulator.... learned a lesson there. I think the BEGI unit us pretty good and I would make sure you have a fuel pressure gauge. Set the fuel press. at about 45-50 psi should be good.

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