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  • #31
    BWHAHAHAHAHAH!!

    This Thread Gives Me Sucky-Sucky LOOOOOONNNNNNNGGGG Time!!!

    And Chas is my prison girlfriend

    (that means b!tch)


    G-O-D...

    Build that facker, I wanna see

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by 1.3ltre
      yea i need to stop flaming. I just hate everyones theories so much.

      Yes

      Comment


      • #33
        Re: BWHAHAHAHAHAH!!

        Originally posted by Sideways_In_SD
        And Chas is my prison girlfriend

        (that means b!tch)
        Where have you been all my life.

        Comment


        • #34
          just get the dam AGT-1500

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by 1.3ltre
            Nightracer
            13brews last from 30k to 50k if your a d u m b a s s. If your first rx had 146, which is almost tripple the maximum of 50k that you stated, then how the hell did you come up with that 30-50k theory? 400hp in an fd is easily obtainable, treat your motor right, and it will treat you the same. Mileage goes down when you drive it aswell...Replace it? Put an re in it..

            I wouldnt expect all this from a rotary owner, unless your an idiot.
            he said the first rx was granny driven auto, which explains the high mileage. 30-50k on a brew replacement engine which has been driven hard. with upped boost and a lightweight flywheel combined with a heavy right foot 50k would be good to get out of a 13brew.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by PearlWhiteMike
              he said the first rx was granny driven auto, which explains the high mileage. 30-50k on a brew replacement engine which has been driven hard. with upped boost and a lightweight flywheel combined with a heavy right foot 50k would be good to get out of a 13brew.
              I know plenty of people with a 80- 100 on used brews, not rebuilds. Not stock either. I guess its pretty random on how long your motors going to last. Especially if the engine is a replacement, and you dont know how the motor was ran prior to you owning it.

              Comment


              • #37
                1.3 litre. Is there any need to do all that cussing?

                I said they are good for about that mileage and lower if you beat on them. My first one was driven by an older lady and it was auto. That is a MAJOR difference than the one I got now. I drive this one and I drive it hard. Therefore the engines are not lasting. I don't see how being a dumbasz has anything to do with it. I've driven rotaries since my first car in 1985. I've owned 2 FD's, 5 first gens, an RX4 and a Rotary truck. I know how to take care of rotaries.

                What is also funny is that everything I am saying has been said numerous times by numerous Rotary owners. Sorry to tell you but the FD engine in twin setup sucks. Remember we are talking FD not FC here. LOT of difference.

                Don't see why you can't see that and why you are getting so defensive. If you don't like the LS1, don't do it. I could care less. But it's my car and I have replaced engines, and not from being an idiot as you so nicely put it. If you drive an FD hard ( as you will in drifting ) it will not last. I don't care what the h e l l you do to it. Also an FD with a 400 hp LS1 is faster then an FD with a 400 HP rotary. Faster, more reliable and cheaper to modify.

                Let's look at your set up.

                13B rebuild. The full kit to do the entire engine from Atkins is 1315.00 bucks for 3mm apex seals. You might want to do Rotor's, up to you but they are around 550.00 each. The Hal-tech is another 1500 bucks plus 98 bucks for the connector kit. The turbo kit for a t-78 since you want power is another 3700 bucks. HKS isn't much better. They log in at 3017.00 for the t04e and 4k for the T04R. Apexi's 400rwhp turbo setup is about 3350.00.

                Now that is before any fuel or anything else such as sensors and whatnot that grenaded when you blew the 13B. That's $6613.00 bucks right there and that's without adding the rotors. Can't take into account friends cause everyone may not have the same friends you have. That is 0 labor and 0 machine shop charges and 0 other parts than what I listed. Now, How in the h e l l is that less than doing an LS1 swap? If you are saying that you can do everything and there is 0 r/r money then shoot all I got to do is get an engine and tranny, computer and kit. Well here is one on HSC.com but it's an auto. 3600 bucks with tranny. Add in 1299.00 for the kit to install it and another 405.00 for the C/F driveshaft option (weight, weight, weight) and i'm ready to go. Let's add about another 250.00 for misc and what do we have? $5554.00 smackeroo's. I have also lost 40+lbs due to the engine swap and C/F driveshaft option, so i'm lighter.
                A saving's of 1043.00 bucks. That is also before fuel which shouldn't be much over what the 13B needs. Now I didn't add misc to the 13B so you can see now that your are a little off when you say that you can do a 400rwhp Rotary for less than an LS1 swap.

                I know these are retail prices but you did say we were going brand new. So let's look at a crate motor. That's where the LS1 becomes a tad higher.
                6615.71 from GMpartsdepot.com and that comes with the computer. 2150.00 for the Tremec ( formerly built by Borg Warner ) t-56 6 speed trans. Say another 350 for a clutch and 250 for a flywheel (guessing there) and it get's higher. That's over 10 grand. That is straight from Chevy as well. But difference is you can go used on V8's without the fear like you do on a Rotary.

                So yes an LS1 is cheaper than the monster you put together. With nitrous on the LS1 the power will easily surpass then Rotaries power and still come in under what it would cost to rebuild to your specs. Oh and last longer too and cheaper to rebuild should you need it.

                Why? Cause they are everywhere. Prices are cheap and demand is so-so cause it's Chevy and they are ALL over the great United States whereas Fd's are not. Demand is super high on parts and only a few places to get them. So prices go straight through the sunroof.
                Last edited by Ghost of Duluth; 01-13-2004, 10:04 PM.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Oh and Pearlie white, i'm still waiting for some photo's of your ride

                  Money is the thing for me right about now. But like I said I am alway's open to negotiations.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    ill try to buy a cable for my camera somewhere locally tomorrow. got any pics of the FD? if i cant find a cable ill just have to use someone else's cam

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Yea they are at my Car Domain.

                      http://www.cardomain.com/id/ghostofduluth

                      There you go. Seats are different now. The front end is still on there but I got the stocker and a Veilside wing for the back. Don't like that wing though I like the factory.

                      Notice the cracks in the front end from The Dragon.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        damnit duluth i had a whole thing written out and now i lost it. ohwell.

                        this is unrelated to the topic, just that it was interesting reading.

                        here learn something about to4e or just turbo charging in general
                        http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/fig16.html

                        Compressor map for t04e, how can you obtain 400hp on that turbo? its definately out of the efficiency island, and way too much for the turbo yet people are doing it. Now its time to learn more, this has nothing to do with the topic, i was just reading and found it interesting. So since 400hp is unobtainable with a t04e yet people in fc and fds are doing it, how can this be done?
                        Last edited by 1.3ltre; 01-13-2004, 11:56 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          answer is here http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...hreadid=258340 its just something to make you smarter i guess.

                          P.S. it has nothing to do with topic, just thought it was interesting since he refered to a rotary and these turbos and making 400hp.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            I didn't refer to that turbo making that hp, I just put it down on the list for price. The only one I said 400rwhp on was the Apexi kit. But interesting article.

                            I wasn't trying to flame you on my last post, just trying to open your eyes to alternative ways that will work. The LS1 is a very nice swap and very reliable. It may not be your cup of tea but it does work and works very well.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              It sounds like you've already made up your mind....

                              but have you considered the 3.8 SFI Turbo from a Grand National?

                              many of the guys on turbobuicks.com have low 11 sec/high 10 on just bolt ons. and it's not something you see everyday in a FD

                              Just a suggestion,

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                grand nasty engines are hot, that would definitely be a good swap for an rx-7. maybe i should put one in the FC? probably sellin it though so i dont think i'll bother

                                there was this guy from hybridz.org with a GN powered 240z that ran 10's (there was some video of it beating a single turbo supra in a drag race, really cool). put a GN motor in the fairlady!

                                i got a flash card reader today. i'll have to wait till tomorrow cause this isnt the computer i normally use, and i need to take new ones anyways.

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