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#251 |
Registered User
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Bumper rendering!
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#252 |
Registered User
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Dumb@$$&*!
Big news coming, but first, a come to dumbass moment.
As you know I have the Megasquirt built and modified to use Ford EDIS-4. Followed the plans, then a few weeks later tried to flash the new firmware. First mistake was trying to use a 9V Battery because the Stimulator does. Well, that works for the Stimulator, but not when just working with the MS. So, after trying to build a 12V battery pack, I just used a car battery. Great, now I have enough juice, but still couldn't flash it. I would run Port Check and two ports would come up. Moving the tuning cable helped find the right port to use (or rather which number not to use). Well, tried to flash it again, no go. After trying another port, I then tried flashing with the MS unattached to my computer. Same error, (the "expected this but got '""' error) meaning the MS wasn't receiving power. WTF? I started to panic then get ticked off as I started thinking "CRAP, I JUST KILLED IT! ![]() After getting done with Brent and Redbeard: UNLEASHED on 1340whap.com, I get home and start looking at the diodes, they're all correct. CRAP! Read through the EDIS mod instructions, get to adding a wire from the bottom of Resistor 10 to the... "NO! I didn't," I thought! The instructions read "Fit wire between bottom of R10 and right of D9 (banded side)," you take a guess (yeah, unbanded side). So much for following directions! Gah, all the worry over nothing! Or so I thought, after fixing the wire I try flashing again, but as a check I run Port Check. Sees it, as it's supposed to, but when I tried flashing, still wouldn't do it. COME ON, why is this thing being so stubborn? Then a thought hits me, "My Boot jumper wire, what if it's too small? The holes are pretty big." So, I go back to my old mechanic self and grabbed a paper clip, cut it, then flashed one more time. It counted to 1750 lines! It worked! Ran Port Check and all is well with the world! Proves, never give up on plan A so quick and be more stubborn than the equipment! Now, on with the big news! Local NAPA Parts Dealer and Psycho Drifting Team Up Exclusively through Powers NAPA Auto Parts of Petersburg, VA and Psycho Racing's Drifting Driver, Justin Banner, also of Petersburg, VA, bring you one more way to get quality parts at inexpensive prices! When you come in to your Powers NAPA Auto Parts stores (25811 Cox Rd or 201 N Market St) and mention "DRIFT27," you will receive a discount on parts and items not already on sale. Thanks to the partnership of Psycho Racing's, Justin Banner and Powers NAPA Auto Parts, the quality of NAPA Parts, and the demand of OEM or better quality parts, you can "GET THE GOOD STUFFtm" at great prices! ![]() "NAPA, GET THE GOOD STUFFtm" |
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#253 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: SW Georgia
Posts: 2
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#254 |
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#255 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Hey whats up guys and gals, new to this forum but have the same plans for my future. I and my wife have been kicking the idea around for a year or so and have finally started the build. I have a 1990 single cab D21 with a z24 in it. I will be posting pics as the build goes on but I have seen trucks keep the overall factory bed in tact but with link suspension. I am thinking of running a 4 link with weighted frame plugs mounted throughout the rear section of frame by boxing in the remaining sections of what will be left of the frame around the c-notch, and run coilovers with lots of adjusting capabilities. I will build the rollcage throughout the whole truck ending just outside the rear of the cab. My biggest hurdle right now is deciding which powerplant to run. First thoughts were to get a VG30DET from a mid 90's 300zx used and run twin turbo's, Or I might stay with the current motor and go with a Turbo setup I have seen at a couple places for it. I have family that is big into drag racing and have lots of resources for engine modifications and fab. I think if we were to get enough people to follow along Drifting Hardbodies will blow up pretty fast.
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#256 |
Registered User
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There is only one issue that the larger sanctioning bodies have when it comes to trucks, the allowance to cut/modify the frame and cab enough to allow a drift truck to sit properly (read, SLAMMED). You could work with standard lowering blocks and spindles, but the leafs need to honestly be ditched in favor of a four-link with a Panhard bar, but again, most bodies won't allow for it. Going grassroots, you could get away with these modifications. Looking to go pro in a truck, not very likely. Which is why I'm doing the S13-Truck now instead of using a D21.
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#257 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: new jersey
Posts: 273
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Hardbody. Go with a SR20det. Makes plenty of power to move a little pick up. I have one in my Cressida and I know that weighs a good 500 pounds or more then what a hardbody does and the SR gets the job done.
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#258 |
Registered User
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My 2WD 4cylinder Hardbody weighed 3400+ lbs. What does a Cressida weigh?
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#259 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: new jersey
Posts: 273
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3400+ sounds more like your gross vehical weight rating. My 02 tacoma weighs around 2800 and my gvwr is like 3500. the cressida weighs about 3100 right now.
Last edited by Toycoma; 01-30-2010 at 06:39 PM. |
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#260 |
Registered User
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I'll tell you, it felt like 3400 lbs. when I was pushing it around.
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Tags |
drift truck, drifting a truck, how to drift a truck |
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