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This is a discussion on N/A FC power help (noob) within the TECH Discussion Forum forums, part of the TECH Discussion category; ok,i have a N/A FC,and im planning on dion some power upgrade,the first step is to keep it N/A...so ya,im ...
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#1 |
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User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 16
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N/A FC power help (noob)
ok,i have a N/A FC,and im planning on dion some power upgrade,the first step is to keep it N/A...so ya,im gunna end up buying a exhaust port template to make the exhaust port larger,but what will it do,like i know it will make more power and will that make the rotor spin faster? do i need a diffrent oil type?,also what else should i do for cheap& easy power upgrades???
oh ya...the power i wanna get N/A is about 250hp Last edited by FC3Slider; 03-28-2005 at 01:33 PM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada. eh?
Posts: 39
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First off, an exhaust port isn't exactly going to be cheap and easy, you need to completely tear the engine down to do it and do a full rebuild in the process, but if you're going to be doing that anyways, you should also get your intake ported. Cheap and easy upgrades would be basics like air intake, exhaust system, underdrive pulleys, weight reduction (not really power but it will definitely help), lightened flywheel/clutch, electric fans to get rid of that nasty mechanical one, etc. I haven't done much work on N/A FC's so this stuff is pretty much general upgrades, but it is definitely the start.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Unless you're rebuilding the motor you're not gonna be able to port it, second there is a lot more to porting then to just buying a template and having at it with your dremel.
Yes porting the exhaust will give you gains but unless the intake ports get done also there will only be minimal gains. The only way the rotor is going to spin faster is if you rev it higher which is useless past 7200 on a stock ported motor.I recommend you do reliabilty mods before power mods,(big radiator,Oil pellet, replace the vac. lines or remove them like i did) If you want some power upgrades that are cheap, do the throttle body mod plus some porting, port the intake manifolds,(if you have a 86-88 you can swap and port 89-91 intake manifolds for some pretty good gains) get a header and get it straight piped, pending on series you might have to do some thing about the aux. port activation if you want to keep them. Fuel controller and some wideband tuning, that should get you some cheap power. Now if you have the money you can build a turbo kit but being as you are a newb i dont recommend it. Now your best bet would be is to actually get some seat time before you mod the car to get to know it limits and then go from there. Last edited by theflatlander; 03-26-2005 at 11:50 AM. |
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#4 |
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Defiant Drifter
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CAI, 3" exhaust, fatter secondaries, MSD-6AL, and S-AFC II.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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3in exhaust is useless on a n/a unless it has some huge port work done and needs the bigger exhaust, 2.5in is just perfect. Same with the bigger secondary injectors, stock fuel system on a n/a will support over 200hp and that power level is just not gonna happen on a stock port.
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Defiant Drifter
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#7 |
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Registered User
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its more the fact that he doesnt understand what actually needs to be done for porting a motor so its prob. not gonna get done. and 3in would only be needed for a full bridge port.
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#8 | |
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Defiant Drifter
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#9 |
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User
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Your better off by making your car alot lighter, with bolt on upgrades you won't see very much power unless you go turbo. But do the basics, like full exhaust. For exhaust I would recomend a Racing Beat collected header, and 2.25 or 2.5 (3 inch is overkill) inch piping to a single straight through muffler, no cats unless you have emmisions then get a high flow. Build a custom cold air intake since no kits are available. You can take out the windshield washer resevoir and mount the filter there, but then it can get splashed from puddles. Another popular spot to locate the filter is infront of the radiator. Remove your secondary throttle plates and knife edge your throttle body. Get a CDI box (MSD, Crane Cams, Jacobs), get new plug wires and maybe even run 7 heat range plugs all around. Get a TurboII fuel pump, anything aftermarket for bolt ons is overkill. Send your injectors out to get cleaned/balanced and get a SAFC2 or some sort of piggyback, or if your up to it a full standalone. You can also port match your intake manifolds for a little bit more flow. Hope this helps.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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geez, just by reading this post its deffinatly gonna help me out a lot... thanks guys
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 82
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#12 | |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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TheFlatlander
hey, i have a question that i think you can easily answer...which rearend can/should i go with the TII rearend and Diff or the 88 GXL rearend and Diff.Secondly how much power can i get out of a N/A 87 FC with minimal mods im also looking for some low end tourque. if you can help me out that would be great.
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#14 |
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Registered User
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^well being as the'yre both clutch type lsd either one will suffice, just the GXL lsd will bolt right up to all your drive train where as the Tii will need the n/a yolk and tii half shafts to work.with minimal mods you'll be looking at around 120-130whp on a stock port 13b, with all the stuff i've done im more closer to 160whp. Now if you're looking for more power all the suggestions above have answered that and want to keep your low-end all you have to is keep your aux. ports working and that'll keep some bottom end but if you're like me and like simplicity you can remove them but you lose bottom end. On a S4 the aux. ports are activated via backpressure from the exhaust so with a free flowing exhaust you lose the aux. ports thus actually losing power but in order to keep them working you'll have to rig up something to activate them, there are a few ways to do it (electric air pumps, lumbar pumps, or something similar) here's a good write-up on how to use lumbar pumps as a solution. http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...t=lumbar+pumps
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#15 |
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Registered User
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hey thanks alot man, also whats the best setup for an exhuast? custom 2 1.5 inch stainless or a RB set-up or what ever manufacture?
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#16 |
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Registered User
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A RB road-race header with a custom dual 2.25in setup will give you better bottom end and more flow, but you will lose the scavenging effect of the 2-into-1 and your top end wont be as strong, so u could build a collector of two 2in into one 2.5in for some really goos power(i have this setup). So its up to u on what u want between the two.
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#17 | |
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#18 |
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User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 16
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so i shoudl just not port out the exhaust port,just lighten out some of the unneeded crap,,,,and get an exhaust and headers,and custom fab a cold air intake...and thats about it....g
....anyways,,ya NHDrifter,ya..your friend brian sold me his fc.,.ya its a pain in the *Censored*we should chill sometime,,,hard drive live is coming to mass anyways...mabye theyll allow people to use the track..oh ya.....if i cut my exhaust into a single exhaust(from the stock y pipe back) what will that do to my back pressure
Last edited by FC3Slider; 04-01-2005 at 05:34 AM. |
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