Ka24de or sr20det? why

2501 · 03-25-2005, 10:19 AM

I have made some money, and decided to go the old hotrod route and start from an engine and beef the hell out of that before I do anything. My question is " you see 90% of people making drift machines with the sr20det engine.. is there a reason?" I wanted to find a totalled 98 240 and just build up the ka24de. Is there a clearcut reason people dont do this, or is there an advantage? I know that one already starts with an upper hand.. having a turbo and all.. but when you get down to the nitty gritty.. will a well built ka24 "bulletproofed" engine do as well as the sr20det variant? Or is there some secret people aren't sharing with me. Dont tell me cost.. because I am doing 95% of the hard stuff myself.. including blueprinting. The only stuff I need to get done outside is CNC everything and balancing. So.. is there a difference?

jaydm180sx · 03-25-2005, 12:26 PM

just search and all your questions will be answered

2501 · 03-25-2005, 12:31 PM

i have... no dice...

2501 · 03-25-2005, 12:39 PM

ok I have looked up most of my questions.... but one still lies unanswered.. why do so many people switch to the sr20? is it because of costs? that seems resonable.

Nismo241 · 03-25-2005, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2501

ok I have looked up most of my questions.... but one still lies unanswered.. why do so many people switch to the sr20? is it because of costs? that seems resonable.

You'd have to ask each owner, there isn't going to be a clear cut answer as to which is better, it's all a matter of opinion. YOU(key word is you) need to look up facts and specs on the motors, and then determine which YOU (key word is you again) think is better, it's your car, you have to build it, you have to pay for it.

Aiki-Drift · 03-25-2005, 12:49 PM

Check this out. I'm considering going the N/A route. We'll see.

http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=19485

sdtouge · 03-25-2005, 03:45 PM

ka "bulletproofed will always be better than the sr because its iron. aluminum will be under more stress than the ka at the same levels of power, plus an extra .4 liter isnt too shaby either.

2501 · 03-25-2005, 05:01 PM

actually, by the time I was going to be done with this engine, I was planning on taking it closer to 3l than anything, but that isn't final. I want response more than raw horsepower, so I wont be striving for huge #'s. I plan on spending about the next year finding a ka24 I can use, and just working up from there. It took some time, but I estimate that if I did 99% of the work myself, including blueprinting, some polishing, and assembly, i would spend around 10k, instead of the upwards of 100k that some people shell out to have race-shops do the work for them. Thanks for the imput so far... I hope to have a streetable car within the next 2 years.

Nismo241 · 03-25-2005, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2501

actually, by the time I was going to be done with this engine, I was planning on taking it closer to 3l than anything, but that isn't final. I want response more than raw horsepower, so I wont be striving for huge #'s. I plan on spending about the next year finding a ka24 I can use, and just working up from there. It took some time, but I estimate that if I did 99% of the work myself, including blueprinting, some polishing, and assembly, i would spend around 10k, instead of the upwards of 100k that some people shell out to have race-shops do the work for them. Thanks for the imput so far... I hope to have a streetable car within the next 2 years.

100K?!?!?! What shop charges 100K to build a motor?

Aiki-Drift · 03-25-2005, 08:42 PM

Oh...... Ok, so you're like 17/18 yrs old. Right? It's awesome if you can do everything yourself, but WTF do you mean by 10K? Is this for the car as a whole or just the engine? You could have a badass machine for maybe half that bro. Forget the V-mounts and the 18in. negative 30 offsets.

Wayne · 03-25-2005, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aiki-Drift

Oh...... Ok, so you're like 17/18 yrs old. Right? It's awesome if you can do everything yourself, but WTF do you mean by 10K? Is this for the car as a whole or just the engine? You could have a badass machine for maybe half that bro. Forget the V-mounts and the 18in. negative 30 offsets.

umm if you woulda taken the time to click his public profile youd see he was born a few years after you. dont use assumptions because some of the 17/18 year olds no hell of a lot more than you mr civic

Aiki-Drift · 03-26-2005, 10:19 AM

I covered my tracks. No pun intended. I said it's cool if he can do everything himself at that age. I wasn't trying to get into a pissing contest about working knowledge. Most of my experiance does come from the multiple hybrid civics I have owned, so what? I love a GSR/eg6 and I am not ashamed. I own an S13 as well, so what's up with the Mr. Civic business? My apologies if someone was offended. I admire everyone's knowledge and advice on this forum. Let's move on.

2501 · 03-27-2005, 10:52 AM

yeah im only 17, but I have been studying alot into this. Anyway, yeah I mean 10k for the engine.. I figure new rods, new pistons, gaskets, new head, headers, new crank, porting, polishing, balancing, blueprinting... doing most of that yourself cuts the $$ load. Blueprinting alone cost around 2k. its just like back in the muscle age... work from the ground up. BTW, I'm not taking any insult to the age thing.. I learned more about cars just by reading and such. I know more than most of my friends taking auto. Its sad really.. because they are getting an education on how to repair engines, and do maaco-grade paint jobs.. and I am saving money to build a block from the ground up along with the knowledge of good suspension. I am looking for a good ka24 block, and over the next few months.. I just plan to swap everything out for high quality parts. By the time I'm done.. I will have an engine that can take anything. No fear of blowing anything off, or dropping anything.

Here is the story with the 100K number.
There is a guy in his 20's in my neighborhood. I dont know what kind of car it is right now.. but he has spend well near $80,000 in his ride. His paint alone problably cost $10 grand. Its a kicking blue paint at that. Anyway, he did such a good job with his car..he was asked by the crew of the 2F2F movie to rent it to them. So, in a nutshell, it problably paid his car off. But yes it is possible to drop top dollar down for a killer ride. Apparently he only drives it at night.

End of story... If I can find him, I will ask for some crazy pics for you guys.

Aiki-Drift · 03-27-2005, 11:19 AM

Cool. Well I think most people go with the Sr20 simply because it is a proven motor. It's relatively easy to get power out of it and it's already a poweful. The Ka24de is the road less traveled. So, you know people will be skepticle on buliding it up or adding a turbo when they can just go with an Sr20det, stock, and be ready to go. I'm really interested in going the N/A route, but I need to find someone that is significantly knowledgable in that area for the Ka. Iv'e read that by adding single cam pistons to the Ka24de one can achieve a compression ratio of about 11:1. However, tuning is the most important issue and I don't know of anyone in my area that can tackle this task right now. But, with all things we must be determined and persistant. I guess we'll see.

2501 · 03-27-2005, 11:30 AM

just out of curiosity, what are the stock hp and tq #'s for a ka? Do you think its possible to break 300hp on na? with an insane buildup of course..?

raging panda · 03-27-2005, 11:42 AM

older gt cars made around 325 hp n/a if i remember right, it was the sohc though. not at all streetable, probably idles really high, has to be rebuilt often, not feasable for daily driver.

SR 20 has a huge aftermarket, lots of following, and every opportunity to make a ton of power if you have the money.

ka has a much smaller aftermarket, making parts harder to come by, especially those that are really high quality, so most of the stuff you will buy is going to be custom, sometimes costing more than the same part for a sr20 because of the fact that its custom.

youre talking about building a bulletproof engine, doing all this crap yourself, but you haven't said anything about what your goals are. you said something about 3 liters, why? And then you say response? Basically you're going to bore the engine beyond its limits and then make your own crankshaft? I hope i read that wrong. You also talk about youre going to do your own machining, i'm not saying that you can't but where are you going to get this done? Who taught you how to do it? That kind of stuff takes some pretty hardcore machines to balance the engine correctly. You never once mention tuning, but say youre going to make a bulletproof engine. Tuning is the most important part of that. You can stuff whatever forged parts, pistons, rods, crank whatever, if you don't tune, it will blow up. there are ka engines with nothing but head gaskets and pistons, running 400 hp or more. Just takes the right tuning. I think you should run around the NICO forums and take it all in. I think there is still a lot of stuff you don't know, and if you do, share it with the rest of us.

If you really want 3 liters, get a RB.

Aiki-Drift · 03-27-2005, 11:50 AM

Raging Panda is right. NICO rocks. I think 175 to 200 HP is more realistic on an N/A setup for the street and that is with precise tuning. To my knowledge the Ka rods come forged, so that's one less thing that needs replacing. ARP rod bolts wouldn't hurt. Iv'e also read that the Ca18 motor shares valve train components with the Ka. Does anyone know anything about that?

2501 · 03-27-2005, 11:52 AM

I'm sorry if I confused you. I grew up with a dad that was a true blue gearhead. The kind of guy that would rebuild an engine over the weekend to go blow up again.
I mentioned I'm taking the buildup approach. I plan to do all the assembly work and upgrades myself, and leave anything pertaining to balancing, and machining to a company. I plan to find a ka block, and overhaul it. To increase the size, possible out to 3 liters, but to keep engine response as well. What I mean by that is... everyone is familiair with the 20v on Ueo's 86 right, with the independent throttle bodies? he is only making 2XX hp but his engine response is instantaneous and he gets that # immediately. I just plan on making an engine that is reinforced with performance parts so that I can do anything with it, from drift to drag. You hear all the time about 1000whp supras or 450whp rx-7's. How do you think they do that? they do it by increasing the size of the engine, and/or by upgrading the major components so that it can be pushed farther. By changing key components, such as an aftermarket crank, rods, and pistons, you are able to push more power. That is my target, instead of switching over to a diff engine.

Hope that clears up some confusion.
hah, it seems like people send me to different forums alot. yeah, Ill go check out NICO and see what I can learn. Thanks you guys.

sdtouge · 03-27-2005, 07:13 PM

how do you increase the size of a rotory engine???
lol, i dont tihnk you can with out swapping it...

Nismo241 · 03-27-2005, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2501

I'm sorry if I confused you. I grew up with a dad that was a true blue gearhead. The kind of guy that would rebuild an engine over the weekend to go blow up again.
I mentioned I'm taking the buildup approach. I plan to do all the assembly work and upgrades myself, and leave anything pertaining to balancing, and machining to a company. I plan to find a ka block, and overhaul it. To increase the size, possible out to 3 liters, but to keep engine response as well. What I mean by that is... everyone is familiair with the 20v on Ueo's 86 right, with the independent throttle bodies? he is only making 2XX hp but his engine response is instantaneous and he gets that # immediately. I just plan on making an engine that is reinforced with performance parts so that I can do anything with it, from drift to drag. You hear all the time about 1000whp supras or 450whp rx-7's. How do you think they do that? they do it by increasing the size of the engine, and/or by upgrading the major components so that it can be pushed farther. By changing key components, such as an aftermarket crank, rods, and pistons, you are able to push more power. That is my target, instead of switching over to a diff engine.

Hope that clears up some confusion.
hah, it seems like people send me to different forums alot. yeah, Ill go check out NICO and see what I can learn. Thanks you guys.

I don't want to sound like an *Censored**Censored**Censored*, and I apologize if I do, but you have a lot to learn before you would want to even think about building a motor by yourself. It's not just throwing parts together and starting it, there is alot of meticulous work involved. I don't think you'll get the KA bored/stroked up to a 3 litre, and if you could, it's not going to be cheap. You can't increase the displacement on a rotary, only raise compression and air flow by porting. Most supras going over 1k HP are still on the factory 3.0L of displacement.

zerodrifter · 03-27-2005, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdtouge

how do you increase the size of a rotory engine???
lol, i dont tihnk you can with out swapping it...

ha ha good laugh

anyway u r a crasy fool why go KA when you can just go turbo ka24? Check these guys out, they get wicked numbers out of there KA's.
www.ka-t.org
Thats my take on your buildup or rather your premeditation. anyway good luck and check out that site.

raging panda · 03-27-2005, 07:51 PM

the reference to UEOs engine wasn't a very good one, as 200hp on that engine is really hard to achieve, and it is a race engine that gets rebuilt regularly. Also, his isn't a 20V unless he has changed engines since last season. It makes that power instantaneously by keeping the stroke short, and parts light. You havent made any reference to that. Increasing the size of the engine will only slow down your engine speed since there will be more mass with a longer rod/larger crank.

Again, rx-7 engines can't be increased in displacement unless you make the rotor smaller, housing bigger, or add another rotor. The first two, i've never heard of it happening.

The supra engine, i have never heard of one getting increased displacement, but if thats true, thats fine, but none of those are N/A. Your arent going to get .6 liters in a KA engine unless you know how to make your own crank, and even then, i dont think you could have enough stroke to make that kind of size without making a custom block to clear the rods, or without it being so out of balance it shakes itself apart. You talk about being a gearhead, but you need to learn some stuff before you go out building engine, or else all you will be doing is blowing them up, then you get frustrated and quit.

If youre talking N/A application, 200 is going to be your most realistic goal, as only a select few have achieved that while maintaining a daily driver. That is with high cost not being a big factor to them, this means no rebuilds weekly. High comp pistons from a sohc, lots of head work, cams, custom intake, possibly itbs and standalone ecu, header, exhaust, possibly 225hp or so. But now you are talking a ton of money.

If you want higher power goals, then turbo will probably be the way to go. With a stock block, crank, rods, forged pistons, metal head gasket, and then all the bolt ons, there have been 225-400+ hp achieved, depending on knowledge and funds. You could feasably be around 225 with about $1000 if you know what you are doing.

you still havent told us what your goals are other than response. you can have a responsive engine with a turbo. I'm assuming you want to go n/a since you referenced ueo, so take what i said and run with it. If you think that is too low of a goal, then prove me wrong, that is the best thing you can do, and please share with us whatever you end up doing, and help others learn from what you have learned from.

Aiki-Drift · 03-27-2005, 08:52 PM

Good info Raging Panda! A lonely N/A thread should be started. Well, As far as N/A, personally I like the fact that it's less parts/less fuss. It's a setup that would suit my Daily Driving needs. Plus, I'm not in search of big horsepower. A rebuild for a tired KA with a comfortable/significant increase in power is my goal. What about you 2501? It seems you have the advantage of keeping it a Drift Only car, so that's conveniant. Pick the motor you feel will accomodate your budget and time.

Nismo241 · 03-27-2005, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raging panda

The supra engine, i have never heard of one getting increased displacement, but if thats true, thats fine, but none of those are N/A.

RARELY people will bore/stroke them, and when they do it's usually 3.1-3.2L. Driftin180sx on this forum, his dad has a 3.3L 2jz

raging panda · 03-27-2005, 11:12 PM

boring them out would make sense to me, especially if youre rebuilding and you need to rework your cylinder walls, then you have a little displacement right there added.

i think i met driftin180sx one time down in oregon at a nissan meet, does his dad own a shop or something, and at one point had an FD with a ton of hp?

03-25-2005, 10:19 AM	#1
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	Ka24de or sr20det? why I have made some money, and decided to go the old hotrod route and start from an engine and beef the hell out of that before I do anything. My question is " you see 90% of people making drift machines with the sr20det engine.. is there a reason?" I wanted to find a totalled 98 240 and just build up the ka24de. Is there a clearcut reason people dont do this, or is there an advantage? I know that one already starts with an upper hand.. having a turbo and all.. but when you get down to the nitty gritty.. will a well built ka24 "bulletproofed" engine do as well as the sr20det variant? Or is there some secret people aren't sharing with me. Dont tell me cost.. because I am doing 95% of the hard stuff myself.. including blueprinting. The only stuff I need to get done outside is CNC everything and balancing. So.. is there a difference?

03-27-2005, 11:52 AM	#18
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	I'm sorry if I confused you. I grew up with a dad that was a true blue gearhead. The kind of guy that would rebuild an engine over the weekend to go blow up again. I mentioned I'm taking the buildup approach. I plan to do all the assembly work and upgrades myself, and leave anything pertaining to balancing, and machining to a company. I plan to find a ka block, and overhaul it. To increase the size, possible out to 3 liters, but to keep engine response as well. What I mean by that is... everyone is familiair with the 20v on Ueo's 86 right, with the independent throttle bodies? he is only making 2XX hp but his engine response is instantaneous and he gets that # immediately. I just plan on making an engine that is reinforced with performance parts so that I can do anything with it, from drift to drag. You hear all the time about 1000whp supras or 450whp rx-7's. How do you think they do that? they do it by increasing the size of the engine, and/or by upgrading the major components so that it can be pushed farther. By changing key components, such as an aftermarket crank, rods, and pistons, you are able to push more power. That is my target, instead of switching over to a diff engine. Hope that clears up some confusion. hah, it seems like people send me to different forums alot. yeah, Ill go check out NICO and see what I can learn. Thanks you guys. Last edited by 2501; 03-27-2005 at 11:59 AM.

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03-25-2005, 12:26 PM	#2
jaydm180sx Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgia Posts: 350	just search and all your questions will be answered

03-25-2005, 12:31 PM	#3
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	i have... no dice...

03-25-2005, 12:39 PM	#4
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	ok I have looked up most of my questions.... but one still lies unanswered.. why do so many people switch to the sr20? is it because of costs? that seems resonable.

03-25-2005, 12:49 PM	#6
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	Check this out. I'm considering going the N/A route. We'll see. http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=19485

03-25-2005, 03:45 PM	#7
sdtouge Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: san diego Posts: 868	ka "bulletproofed will always be better than the sr because its iron. aluminum will be under more stress than the ka at the same levels of power, plus an extra .4 liter isnt too shaby either.

03-25-2005, 05:01 PM	#8
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	actually, by the time I was going to be done with this engine, I was planning on taking it closer to 3l than anything, but that isn't final. I want response more than raw horsepower, so I wont be striving for huge #'s. I plan on spending about the next year finding a ka24 I can use, and just working up from there. It took some time, but I estimate that if I did 99% of the work myself, including blueprinting, some polishing, and assembly, i would spend around 10k, instead of the upwards of 100k that some people shell out to have race-shops do the work for them. Thanks for the imput so far... I hope to have a streetable car within the next 2 years.

03-25-2005, 08:42 PM	#10
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	Oh...... Ok, so you're like 17/18 yrs old. Right? It's awesome if you can do everything yourself, but WTF do you mean by 10K? Is this for the car as a whole or just the engine? You could have a badass machine for maybe half that bro. Forget the V-mounts and the 18in. negative 30 offsets.

03-26-2005, 10:19 AM	#12
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	I covered my tracks. No pun intended. I said it's cool if he can do everything himself at that age. I wasn't trying to get into a pissing contest about working knowledge. Most of my experiance does come from the multiple hybrid civics I have owned, so what? I love a GSR/eg6 and I am not ashamed. I own an S13 as well, so what's up with the Mr. Civic business? My apologies if someone was offended. I admire everyone's knowledge and advice on this forum. Let's move on.

03-27-2005, 10:52 AM	#13
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	yeah im only 17, but I have been studying alot into this. Anyway, yeah I mean 10k for the engine.. I figure new rods, new pistons, gaskets, new head, headers, new crank, porting, polishing, balancing, blueprinting... doing most of that yourself cuts the $$ load. Blueprinting alone cost around 2k. its just like back in the muscle age... work from the ground up. BTW, I'm not taking any insult to the age thing.. I learned more about cars just by reading and such. I know more than most of my friends taking auto. Its sad really.. because they are getting an education on how to repair engines, and do maaco-grade paint jobs.. and I am saving money to build a block from the ground up along with the knowledge of good suspension. I am looking for a good ka24 block, and over the next few months.. I just plan to swap everything out for high quality parts. By the time I'm done.. I will have an engine that can take anything. No fear of blowing anything off, or dropping anything. Here is the story with the 100K number. There is a guy in his 20's in my neighborhood. I dont know what kind of car it is right now.. but he has spend well near $80,000 in his ride. His paint alone problably cost $10 grand. Its a kicking blue paint at that. Anyway, he did such a good job with his car..he was asked by the crew of the 2F2F movie to rent it to them. So, in a nutshell, it problably paid his car off. But yes it is possible to drop top dollar down for a killer ride. Apparently he only drives it at night. End of story... If I can find him, I will ask for some crazy pics for you guys.

03-27-2005, 11:19 AM	#14
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	Cool. Well I think most people go with the Sr20 simply because it is a proven motor. It's relatively easy to get power out of it and it's already a poweful. The Ka24de is the road less traveled. So, you know people will be skepticle on buliding it up or adding a turbo when they can just go with an Sr20det, stock, and be ready to go. I'm really interested in going the N/A route, but I need to find someone that is significantly knowledgable in that area for the Ka. Iv'e read that by adding single cam pistons to the Ka24de one can achieve a compression ratio of about 11:1. However, tuning is the most important issue and I don't know of anyone in my area that can tackle this task right now. But, with all things we must be determined and persistant. I guess we'll see.

03-27-2005, 11:30 AM	#15
2501 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ohio, US Posts: 104	just out of curiosity, what are the stock hp and tq #'s for a ka? Do you think its possible to break 300hp on na? with an insane buildup of course..?

03-27-2005, 11:42 AM	#16
raging panda Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Renton. Posts: 379	older gt cars made around 325 hp n/a if i remember right, it was the sohc though. not at all streetable, probably idles really high, has to be rebuilt often, not feasable for daily driver. SR 20 has a huge aftermarket, lots of following, and every opportunity to make a ton of power if you have the money. ka has a much smaller aftermarket, making parts harder to come by, especially those that are really high quality, so most of the stuff you will buy is going to be custom, sometimes costing more than the same part for a sr20 because of the fact that its custom. youre talking about building a bulletproof engine, doing all this crap yourself, but you haven't said anything about what your goals are. you said something about 3 liters, why? And then you say response? Basically you're going to bore the engine beyond its limits and then make your own crankshaft? I hope i read that wrong. You also talk about youre going to do your own machining, i'm not saying that you can't but where are you going to get this done? Who taught you how to do it? That kind of stuff takes some pretty hardcore machines to balance the engine correctly. You never once mention tuning, but say youre going to make a bulletproof engine. Tuning is the most important part of that. You can stuff whatever forged parts, pistons, rods, crank whatever, if you don't tune, it will blow up. there are ka engines with nothing but head gaskets and pistons, running 400 hp or more. Just takes the right tuning. I think you should run around the NICO forums and take it all in. I think there is still a lot of stuff you don't know, and if you do, share it with the rest of us. If you really want 3 liters, get a RB.

03-27-2005, 11:50 AM	#17
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	Raging Panda is right. NICO rocks. I think 175 to 200 HP is more realistic on an N/A setup for the street and that is with precise tuning. To my knowledge the Ka rods come forged, so that's one less thing that needs replacing. ARP rod bolts wouldn't hurt. Iv'e also read that the Ca18 motor shares valve train components with the Ka. Does anyone know anything about that?

03-27-2005, 07:13 PM	#19
sdtouge Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: san diego Posts: 868	how do you increase the size of a rotory engine??? lol, i dont tihnk you can with out swapping it...

03-27-2005, 07:51 PM	#22
raging panda Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Renton. Posts: 379	the reference to UEOs engine wasn't a very good one, as 200hp on that engine is really hard to achieve, and it is a race engine that gets rebuilt regularly. Also, his isn't a 20V unless he has changed engines since last season. It makes that power instantaneously by keeping the stroke short, and parts light. You havent made any reference to that. Increasing the size of the engine will only slow down your engine speed since there will be more mass with a longer rod/larger crank. Again, rx-7 engines can't be increased in displacement unless you make the rotor smaller, housing bigger, or add another rotor. The first two, i've never heard of it happening. The supra engine, i have never heard of one getting increased displacement, but if thats true, thats fine, but none of those are N/A. Your arent going to get .6 liters in a KA engine unless you know how to make your own crank, and even then, i dont think you could have enough stroke to make that kind of size without making a custom block to clear the rods, or without it being so out of balance it shakes itself apart. You talk about being a gearhead, but you need to learn some stuff before you go out building engine, or else all you will be doing is blowing them up, then you get frustrated and quit. If youre talking N/A application, 200 is going to be your most realistic goal, as only a select few have achieved that while maintaining a daily driver. That is with high cost not being a big factor to them, this means no rebuilds weekly. High comp pistons from a sohc, lots of head work, cams, custom intake, possibly itbs and standalone ecu, header, exhaust, possibly 225hp or so. But now you are talking a ton of money. If you want higher power goals, then turbo will probably be the way to go. With a stock block, crank, rods, forged pistons, metal head gasket, and then all the bolt ons, there have been 225-400+ hp achieved, depending on knowledge and funds. You could feasably be around 225 with about $1000 if you know what you are doing. you still havent told us what your goals are other than response. you can have a responsive engine with a turbo. I'm assuming you want to go n/a since you referenced ueo, so take what i said and run with it. If you think that is too low of a goal, then prove me wrong, that is the best thing you can do, and please share with us whatever you end up doing, and help others learn from what you have learned from.

03-27-2005, 08:52 PM	#23
Aiki-Drift Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: New Jersey :( Posts: 132	Good info Raging Panda! A lonely N/A thread should be started. Well, As far as N/A, personally I like the fact that it's less parts/less fuss. It's a setup that would suit my Daily Driving needs. Plus, I'm not in search of big horsepower. A rebuild for a tired KA with a comfortable/significant increase in power is my goal. What about you 2501? It seems you have the advantage of keeping it a Drift Only car, so that's conveniant. Pick the motor you feel will accomodate your budget and time.

03-27-2005, 11:12 PM	#25
raging panda Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Renton. Posts: 379	boring them out would make sense to me, especially if youre rebuilding and you need to rework your cylinder walls, then you have a little displacement right there added. i think i met driftin180sx one time down in oregon at a nissan meet, does his dad own a shop or something, and at one point had an FD with a ton of hp?