Opinion of Flashoption.com

Skillzilla · 01-08-2004, 02:28 PM

OK, next thread, I am looking into getting an RB20 half cut, and I need info on Flashoption.com. They are the low bidders so far in my engine search, and I want to know if they are reputable or what.

If not, its cool beacuse its only a few hundred between them and the next lowest price, but Im a frugile dude, ya know.

Thanks for the help.

CRASHDRIVE · 01-08-2004, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Skillzilla
OK, next thread, I am looking into getting an RB20 half cut, and I need info on Flashoption.com. They are the low bidders so far in my engine search, and I want to know if they are reputable or what.

If not, its cool beacuse its only a few hundred between them and the next lowest price, but Im a frugile dude, ya know.

Thanks for the help.

All i know they ship the Clips from Malaysia to the US. And its "what you see and what you get" I dont think they have warranty. I dont know,

Project240 · 01-13-2004, 08:52 AM

Do NOT, I repeat, NOT NOT NOT!!!! buy from Flashoptions. I've heard nothing but horror stories about people waiting for months for their engine because it got stuck in customs, or not getting it, etc. Also realize that they *are* based in Malaysia, on the other side of the world, so if something does go wrong, you're kinda screwed.

Venus Auto is great. I got my RB20 clip from them for $1500 (plus a lot of shipping costs

) in excellent condition, included everything I needed and even a little more. Their customer service is great; if there's a problem with anything you received, let them know and they'll fix it ASAP. In fact, now would be a good time to buy from them since they're running a special on the RB20 (I think 1200 for a clip, GREAT price).

Hope this helps.

hokiruu · 01-13-2004, 11:28 AM

NO! BAD! DO NOT! Also do not buy from Cartune/Neishlin!

Skillzilla · 01-13-2004, 07:22 PM

I was thinking of going with Venus, but they said shipping was going to be like 600-700 bones, which brings the price of the clip up to almost 2 g's. I wish shipping on everything was culturally placed on the seller, you know??!! I found a motor set locally for around 800, but thats (obviously) without a crossmember, which means new mounts, and they are expensive. Plus I like the thought of having a whole clip.

Anyone have opinions on the CA18?? Thats my second choice. My goal is 300hp for 3000 dollars, engine wise. What are your thoughts?

Chas · 01-13-2004, 09:19 PM

www.zerolift.com

Nismo241 · 01-14-2004, 02:03 AM

I've heard bad about zerolift and heard bad about flashoptions and have had personal bad experience with venus, I'll explain.....

Zerolift......sent a guy a motor with broken stuff on it, and a thread was started on 240sxforums about it, on there they conducted themselves in a manner of a 2 year old, they wouldn't take care of him the way they should have, they wanted him to pay for shipping charges and a restocking fee, when being their fault they should have fixed their mistake. I would not buy from them ever.

Flashoptions.....they are basically racinghard.com, which is a crap based malasian company that does bad business. In numerous threads on numerous forums they'll send pics of the same motor to different people who are buying, so one guys' motor is the same pic as the next. They sent I think it was Cameron of Night7 a video clip of their "many RB25DET clips" with a bunch of front cuts with the hoods down and actually showed only 2, which happen to be the same 2 pics that they send everyone else, he asked that they take pics of each motor with his name on it and they couldn't produce the pics. When/if they actually send you the motor, you'll get to wait anywhere from 4-9 months and have to pay about 1K extra in customs fee's which they forget to mention to you in the first place. I wouldn't buy from them EVER.

Venus Auto......my first clip was amazing, came with after market parts on it, very clean, low miles, very happy at that point, I got boost happy and blew the RB20. Called and asked if they had any good long blocks lying around, they did, for 650 I got the long block and shipped, well I put it in my car, not testing it trusting their word, got everything hooked up EXACTLY the way it was from my first swap, and it didn't run, I do a comp test, 30 psi in all 6, I was confused, thinking how could a good long block be making 30psi comp, well i do a leak down test, leaking out the intake and exhaust valves over all 6, and leaking out the rings in all 6. I call them, and they said I had to pay for shipping both ways, as it's under warranty and they would replace it, I pissed and moaned til I got to finally talk to the owner, he agreed when I said; "why should I have to pay for your mistake" and told me the best he could do was pay for shipping on the way back to me, so I sent it out, I got my new one in and almost running, but they left the new one BARE, if I didn't have 2 boxes full of RB20 parts in my garage I would have been screwed, they didnt leave any plugs to keep water out of the cylinders, and the block was filled with water, it took 16 quarts to get the oil to look like oil, I did a comp check with the water/oil in it and it made 120 in all 6, with good oil it made 130, so things are looking good for this one. Moral is, I would not buy a long block from them, but I would buy a clip/motorset but under the condition that they show me results of leakdown and comp tests. Which also reminds me, they also claimed to have done a comp check on the motor I have now, and they said it made 150 in all 6, well the very first test I did it only made 80, 120, 90, 30, and I didnt even do the last 2 cause I was so pissed, I went out to video tape it and send it to them and it made 120, I assume the valves were sticking. But I would make damn sure that you have results first.

As for who to buy from... I really don;t know, I know night7 has clips for sale, and if he does COD I would order from there, but only if due to complications had in the past. Good luck in finding a good place to buy from. If you need any tech/wiring help on the swap IM me at NISMObuttnutz or EMail me at Nismo241@comcast.net

Chas · 01-14-2004, 07:04 AM

Mckinney Motorsports.

hokiruu · 01-14-2004, 07:18 AM

300hp for $3000? It is definitely possible for a select few, but you need to be more realistic, or at least flexible. Three grand really is not much of a budget for any os the 240 swaps or turbo projects, andeven more inadequate for 300hp. Is your $3000 a constricting budget or just a "proof of dollar to horsepower" ratio you made up? It sounds like the former in this case, because if you were bent on the later, you would probably already know everything you need to to make it happen. Too many people think like:

"I'm going to get this engine for $X, giving me X horsepower, then add XXX for $XXX and bring it up to XXXXXXX horsepower!"

Well that equation just isn't how it works. Reliability, parts replacement, "over-precautionary parts for the future of this engine" (my personal adage) and good, well executed labor, all cost money.

Cartune/Neishlin:
Paid for my engine, transmission, and harness conversion upfront, for a specific clip they had in stock. Told them not to ship it until I had finished moving. I provided no shipping address.
Two weeks later I got a tracking # for the engine, shipping address somewhere in Massachussetts. I immediately called them and told them about their mistake. Due to the fact that the engine was with a freight company somewhere, I didn't want anything to happen to it and had them send it to my friend's shop where I rent lift space.
The engine arrived on a completely demolished palette with a dented oil pan, misssing MAFS, and no ECU. But the worst part is that they sent it "COD" for "computer parts" to the tune of $610 from LA to Santa Fe. It was pay that or lose the engine I already paid for. I wasn't present, so my friend decided to pay for the shipping for the time being.
I called the company again, and they of course gave me the run around, as did the freight company, so there wasn't much I could do. Later i found out from a former employee that I was ripped off by their shady co-owner/shipping guy. The owner himself took absolutely no action to help me, probably quite aware of this. I gave up, but demanded the missing parts. After requesting them four times, I finally got them, once again COD. They make you pay for their mistakes every time. The ECU has no diagnostic port, just an empty slot and hole where they should be.
Then came time for me to send out my harness. I found out that Ken from Motorex is the one who actually does most of their harness and wiring work. This is great because he has a rep as one of the best wiring gurus in So Cal. the bad part is that they took a month to do it. I am sure this has nothing to do with Ken, but rather slacking on Cartune/Neishlin's part.
I got the harness back (COD), hooked it up, it didn't seem to be laid out correctly for the engine bay, but everything reaches. But no spark. Checked everything, but no avail. After alot of testing and trouble shooting, something appears to be fishy with the ignitor chip. i send it and the ECU back to be tested. After two and a half weeks of calling and nagging them (every transaction you have to call them long distance at least three times to get anything to happen, and the people you need to talk to are NEVER there) I finally demand that they test the ignitor right then and there. it's a bad ignitor. The same typically slow and annoying cycle continues until i get a good ignitor. The SR finally roars to life six months after I purchased it. If everything had been better, say from a different supplier, I would have completed it in no more than five days including all the upgrades i did.

Skillzilla · 01-14-2004, 01:22 PM

I understand what your saying about the $XX=XXhp thing, and that does bug me too. I think 300 for 3000 IS obtainable if done correctly. By "correct" i mean tuning, tuning, tuning. My planned first mods are exhaust and intercooler. Then its all AFC, BC, and Cams. Oh, and BTW, that 3000 is not including dyno runs, which I plan on doing a lot of.

I decided to get a local engine that is selling for ~900. That should help with my goal, i think, and allow for more upgrades.

Nismo241 · 01-14-2004, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Skillzilla
I understand what your saying about the $XX=XXhp thing, and that does bug me too. I think 300 for 3000 IS obtainable if done correctly. By "correct" i mean tuning, tuning, tuning. My planned first mods are exhaust and intercooler. Then its all AFC, BC, and Cams. Oh, and BTW, that 3000 is not including dyno runs, which I plan on doing a lot of.

I decided to get a local engine that is selling for ~900. That should help with my goal, i think, and allow for more upgrades.

It won;t exactly help you with your goal, because I can almost gaurentee that that 900$ motor is incomplete as they come. You'll be searching for little parts that are hard to find.

300whp is not attainable unless you happen to have a bigger turbo, injectors, some sort of tunable engine management lying around your house. The most I've seen made with even an S15 turbo is 280whp, so you'd need at least a T3/T4 or soemthing damn close to it, bigger injectors, front mount, exhaust, and tuning. All that plus a swap for under 3K, it's pretty unattainble unless you have the parts lying around from a previous projecto

Skillzilla · 01-14-2004, 02:42 PM

I went to check out the motor, and it is complete. The only thing I wish it came with was a r32 crossmember, but alas, I will have to figure somethin out. Im thinking of maybe having mounts machined from a local shop. They gave reasonable quotes, unlike the peeps that want 500 bones for em.

I understand your point about the turbo issue. All I can say is We will see what happens. Injectors are a must though, forgot about those, and also a fuel pump, and Z32 MAF. Im hoping dyno tuning will pick up where the stock turbo leaves off, and if I blow the snail in the process of finishing my little science experiment, oh well. The new one will definately make 300, and then Ill try 400 for 4000. Its just a goal, guys, and IMHO I think its feasible.

CRASHDRIVE · 01-14-2004, 03:20 PM

AERODYNE INDUSTRIES (of Garden Grove.)

If your in California. Go to Garden Grove they are in Trask Ave. They have alot of SR20 motors and RB motors. How do I know this? Because I do my business with them and i've been in the Garage. I was just they over the weekend. They have an 1 RB motor/3 SR20 and 1 TII (rotary) and 1 86 (16v). They do a great job and they're cool. Also they have a long history in Racing. Oh yeah. If you dont believe me. Check the cover of SuperStreet (Month of May 2003). The FC is theirs. Also they have a project Hachi that made the cover of a Japanese magazine only

(because SuperStreet only like new cars, stupid ppl) he he.

Skillzilla · 01-14-2004, 05:05 PM

I am on the east Caost, which is both good (Unstable Hybrids, Enjuku) and bad (everyone else).

Nismo241 · 01-14-2004, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Skillzilla
I am on the east Caost, which is both good (Unstable Hybrids, Enjuku) and bad (everyone else).

U-H is going out of business from what I understand, so it's just enjuku for you.

hokiruu · 01-15-2004, 07:34 AM

Sorry if i seem patronizing, but do you even have any first hand experience driving, riding in, or working on any of the turbo Nissan engines? Why do you need 300hp? And why right AWAY? There is absolutely nothing wrong with upgrading over time. One of the reasons these engines are so great. The bottom line is: why not simply wait and collect you parts and just forget about the whole $3000 thing? I admire your perseverence and don't want to seem like a discouraging doubter, but the whole project has an underlying tone of fantasy. However, since your basic and overall goals ARE interesting, here are a few ideas i have:

And what about clutch? if you think that old $900 RB20 clutch is going to be great for putting down 300hp, I advise you not to try. And you will need money for gauges to tune your engine. With injectors you will need at least an SAFC. And a boost controller, exhaust, etc.

Yes, it is cool to do an RB swap. However, in yourcase it is not really very helpful for only 300hp. RB is something that requires alot more work to swap. More work equals more money. if you dont care about the money, drop the $3000 budget and be patient.

Since we all agree that a turbo upgrade IS necessary for your targeted power, why not just get a good old CA18DET?
They rev high as hell , have iron block like the RB, don't have rocker arms and are only minimally smaller in displacement. I know you like the RB thing, but a CA is much closer to you budget.
Very good condition CA18DET $1800 plus shipping
With a CA, you can bolt on an S15 turbo, which will get you pretty close to your goal. $900
With a CA, you can save a good amount of $ and just drop in top feed Skyline 444cc injectors, which will get you to the level of power you want. eBay as low as $200
A new Exedy CA clutch can be yours for $350
custom FMIC can be hooked up for $600
Walbro Fuel pump $150
used SAFC $200
MBC $100
decent gauges $250
home made K&N intake $60
Downpipe $150
Exhaust $500

Total: $5260 WAIT! IT'S OVER THE LIMIT! Damn right! And it will run very well, and kick the *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* out of the jalopy RB20 thing that i doubt will come together for $3000. It's only a few grand over $3000, but it's thorough, reliable, and powerful. It includes all the basic essentials while still allowing space to grow.Just my $.02

Nismo241 · 01-16-2004, 07:50 PM

Someone doesnt know much about their swaps. My RB20 swap was done for under 2K, easy swap, easier than the trendy SR swap and performs better, revvs higher and has a stronger bottom end. Parts aren;t as common obviously but they are becoming easy to find, and alot of places are carrying them.

Quote:

Originally posted by hokiruu
Sorry if i seem patronizing, but do you even have any first hand experience driving, riding in, or working on any of the turbo Nissan engines? Why do you need 300hp? And why right AWAY? There is absolutely nothing wrong with upgrading over time. One of the reasons these engines are so great. The bottom line is: why not simply wait and collect you parts and just forget about the whole $3000 thing? I admire your perseverence and don't want to seem like a discouraging doubter, but the whole project has an underlying tone of fantasy. However, since your basic and overall goals ARE interesting, here are a few ideas i have:

And what about clutch? if you think that old $900 RB20 clutch is going to be great for putting down 300hp, I advise you not to try. And you will need money for gauges to tune your engine. With injectors you will need at least an SAFC. And a boost controller, exhaust, etc.

Yes, it is cool to do an RB swap. However, in yourcase it is not really very helpful for only 300hp. RB is something that requires alot more work to swap. More work equals more money. if you dont care about the money, drop the $3000 budget and be patient.

Since we all agree that a turbo upgrade IS necessary for your targeted power, why not just get a good old CA18DET?
They rev high as hell , have iron block like the RB, don't have rocker arms and are only minimally smaller in displacement. I know you like the RB thing, but a CA is much closer to you budget.
Very good condition CA18DET $1800 plus shipping
With a CA, you can bolt on an S15 turbo, which will get you pretty close to your goal. $900
With a CA, you can save a good amount of $ and just drop in top feed Skyline 444cc injectors, which will get you to the level of power you want. eBay as low as $200
A new Exedy CA clutch can be yours for $350
custom FMIC can be hooked up for $600
Walbro Fuel pump $150
used SAFC $200
MBC $100
decent gauges $250
home made K&N intake $60
Downpipe $150
Exhaust $500

Total: $5260 WAIT! IT'S OVER THE LIMIT! Damn right! And it will run very well, and kick the *Censored**Censored**Censored**Censored* out of the jalopy RB20 thing that i doubt will come together for $3000. It's only a few grand over $3000, but it's thorough, reliable, and powerful. It includes all the basic essentials while still allowing space to grow.Just my $.02

mudduck3006 · 01-17-2004, 07:07 PM

www.japandirect.com they seem to be pretty staight up and decent prices but i have yet to get anything from them good luck bro.

sobe · 01-17-2004, 07:17 PM

eh...flashoption?...eh

hokiruu · 01-18-2004, 08:15 AM

Nismo 241: Just because you did yours for under $2k doesn't mean he will. He's talking about cams and forgetting about injector upgrades, which doesn't give me the impression he has everything worked out to reach his goal. At least I was trying to give him some constructive advice, insetad of putting down thers who were trying to help him. So why dont you help him out yourself if you know so much insetad of dissing me?

Nismo241 · 01-18-2004, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hokiruu
Nismo 241: Just because you did yours for under $2k doesn't mean he will. He's talking about cams and forgetting about injector upgrades, which doesn't give me the impression he has everything worked out to reach his goal. At least I was trying to give him some constructive advice, insetad of putting down thers who were trying to help him. So why dont you help him out yourself if you know so much insetad of dissing me?

Why don;t you shut your mouth unless you know facts, I have done a few RB swpas for UNDER 2k, so just because I know of about 5 guys that did it for under 2 means he wont? I've helped plenty, this thread is titled.....Opinion of flashoptions, I gave mine, I also gave mine about 2 other 'reputable companies. Fact is you are spreading false info, I can say you DO NOT KNOW what you are talking about. It's not more work to do the RB20 into an S13, in fact it's less work than an SR20 into an S13, so why is it that it would not be a good plan, thats a faster motor, easier swap, and less money, I don;t get it.

ZeroliftAutoLab · 01-18-2004, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Nismo241
Zerolift......sent a guy a motor with broken stuff on it, and a thread was started on 240sxforums about it, on there they conducted themselves in a manner of a 2 year old, they wouldn't take care of him the way they should have, they wanted him to pay for shipping charges and a restocking fee, when being their fault they should have fixed their mistake. I would not buy from them ever

Just so the record is clear, we have met the needs of the one customer, sent the customer cash back as well as parts that were needed.

on a side note, thanks for the link CHAS *thumbsup*

Stay sideways!
Zerolift Autolab Team

Nismo241 · 01-18-2004, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ZeroliftAutoLab
Just so the record is clear, we have met the needs of the one customer, sent the customer cash back as well as parts that were needed.

on a side note, thanks for the link CHAS *thumbsup*

Stay sideways!
Zerolift Autolab Team

Glad to see you cleared things up

hokiruu · 01-19-2004, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Nismo241
Why don;t you shut your mouth unless you know facts, I have done a few RB swpas for UNDER 2k, so just because I know of about 5 guys that did it for under 2 means he wont? I've helped plenty, this thread is titled.....Opinion of flashoptions, I gave mine, I also gave mine about 2 other 'reputable companies. Fact is you are spreading false info, I can say you DO NOT KNOW what you are talking about. It's not more work to do the RB20 into an S13, in fact it's less work than an SR20 into an S13, so why is it that it would not be a good plan, thats a faster motor, easier swap, and less money, I don;t get it.

Oooh. Grow up and relax or fly down here and talk smack to my face if that's what you really want to do. But save it on the boards please. Since you are just making useless statements about what you know and have done, and are providing no useful info, I am gong to assume you are full of it. If you can drop your attitude long enough, maybe you can explain what I said that is spreading false info. That would be alot more constructive for everyone, and it might even be a good alternative over trash talking for feeding your starving little ego.

Skillzilla · 01-25-2004, 12:42 AM

Sorry I was gone for so long...but anywho, Im back. First off, this thread was about Flashoption.com, or any other option for a motor .com out there. It was my fault for bringing up my "project" I have going. And to shed some light, I got my RB20 for 1k, and it is in great shape. Once it was mine, I took off the valve cover, checker the head, manually turned the crank, checked the turbo (which was brand new BTW. Thanks previous owner!!!), and inspected the tranny. Its all good to go.

So thats $1000.

For the other 2g's, we'll have to wait and see. Right now Im debating on doing the swap mysef or having someone do it. Im using complex algorithms and math analysis to weigh my non-existent free time against my stubborness about not spending over 3 grand. Right now, free time is winning.

So, to all of you (especially Hokiruu), leave it alone. Its my car, my swap, my money. Let me do ehat I want.

On a side note, I found a car to swap the RB into, a 89 hatch with a blown KA for 700 bones. The int./ext. are in better shape than my car, and it will allow me to have a ride as the work is goin on. Plus I can sell my current 240 when Im done and turn a profit, which means free money while staying under 3 g's. Score.

And Nismo 241, what pointers do you have on the wap? Do you definately have to take your dash out? Thats what I am dreading. Well, its either that or labor charges.

And get this: my local shop was going to charge me $700 labor for the swap. Not too bad. Then I told them the RB was already out of the front clip, and I was plannin on pulling the KA out of the donor car before the swap, in order to cut costs, since it would be a good 10 hours of labor at least for them to pull the two motors themselves. New labor charge: $700.

Needless to say, those tools are getting none of my business or dollars.

01-08-2004, 02:28 PM	#1
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	Opinion of Flashoption.com OK, next thread, I am looking into getting an RB20 half cut, and I need info on Flashoption.com. They are the low bidders so far in my engine search, and I want to know if they are reputable or what. If not, its cool beacuse its only a few hundred between them and the next lowest price, but Im a frugile dude, ya know. Thanks for the help.

01-14-2004, 03:20 PM	#13
CRASHDRIVE Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: San Diego Posts: 937	2 Words AERODYNE INDUSTRIES (of Garden Grove.) If your in California. Go to Garden Grove they are in Trask Ave. They have alot of SR20 motors and RB motors. How do I know this? Because I do my business with them and i've been in the Garage. I was just they over the weekend. They have an 1 RB motor/3 SR20 and 1 TII (rotary) and 1 86 (16v). They do a great job and they're cool. Also they have a long history in Racing. Oh yeah. If you dont believe me. Check the cover of SuperStreet (Month of May 2003). The FC is theirs. Also they have a project Hachi that made the cover of a Japanese magazine only (because SuperStreet only like new cars, stupid ppl) he he.

01-15-2004, 07:34 AM	#16
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 125	Sorry if i seem patronizing, but do you even have any first hand experience driving, riding in, or working on any of the turbo Nissan engines? Why do you need 300hp? And why right AWAY? There is absolutely nothing wrong with upgrading over time. One of the reasons these engines are so great. The bottom line is: why not simply wait and collect you parts and just forget about the whole $3000 thing? I admire your perseverence and don't want to seem like a discouraging doubter, but the whole project has an underlying tone of fantasy. However, since your basic and overall goals ARE interesting, here are a few ideas i have: And what about clutch? if you think that old $900 RB20 clutch is going to be great for putting down 300hp, I advise you not to try. And you will need money for gauges to tune your engine. With injectors you will need at least an SAFC. And a boost controller, exhaust, etc. Yes, it is cool to do an RB swap. However, in yourcase it is not really very helpful for only 300hp. RB is something that requires alot more work to swap. More work equals more money. if you dont care about the money, drop the $3000 budget and be patient. Since we all agree that a turbo upgrade IS necessary for your targeted power, why not just get a good old CA18DET? They rev high as hell , have iron block like the RB, don't have rocker arms and are only minimally smaller in displacement. I know you like the RB thing, but a CA is much closer to you budget. Very good condition CA18DET $1800 plus shipping With a CA, you can bolt on an S15 turbo, which will get you pretty close to your goal. $900 With a CA, you can save a good amount of $ and just drop in top feed Skyline 444cc injectors, which will get you to the level of power you want. eBay as low as $200 A new Exedy CA clutch can be yours for $350 custom FMIC can be hooked up for $600 Walbro Fuel pump $150 used SAFC $200 MBC $100 decent gauges $250 home made K&N intake $60 Downpipe $150 Exhaust $500 Total: $5260 WAIT! IT'S OVER THE LIMIT! Damn right! And it will run very well, and kick the CensoredCensoredCensoredCensored out of the jalopy RB20 thing that i doubt will come together for $3000. It's only a few grand over $3000, but it's thorough, reliable, and powerful. It includes all the basic essentials while still allowing space to grow.Just my $.02 Last edited by hokiruu; 01-15-2004 at 07:41 AM.

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01-13-2004, 08:52 AM	#3
Project240 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1	Do NOT, I repeat, NOT NOT NOT!!!! buy from Flashoptions. I've heard nothing but horror stories about people waiting for months for their engine because it got stuck in customs, or not getting it, etc. Also realize that they are based in Malaysia, on the other side of the world, so if something does go wrong, you're kinda screwed. Venus Auto is great. I got my RB20 clip from them for $1500 (plus a lot of shipping costs ) in excellent condition, included everything I needed and even a little more. Their customer service is great; if there's a problem with anything you received, let them know and they'll fix it ASAP. In fact, now would be a good time to buy from them since they're running a special on the RB20 (I think 1200 for a clip, GREAT price). Hope this helps.

01-13-2004, 11:28 AM	#4
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 125	NO! BAD! DO NOT! Also do not buy from Cartune/Neishlin!

01-13-2004, 07:22 PM	#5
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	I was thinking of going with Venus, but they said shipping was going to be like 600-700 bones, which brings the price of the clip up to almost 2 g's. I wish shipping on everything was culturally placed on the seller, you know??!! I found a motor set locally for around 800, but thats (obviously) without a crossmember, which means new mounts, and they are expensive. Plus I like the thought of having a whole clip. Anyone have opinions on the CA18?? Thats my second choice. My goal is 300hp for 3000 dollars, engine wise. What are your thoughts?

01-13-2004, 09:19 PM	#6
Chas Guest Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Huntington Beach Posts: 2,566	www.zerolift.com

01-14-2004, 02:03 AM	#7
Nismo241 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: aloha oregon Posts: 106	I've heard bad about zerolift and heard bad about flashoptions and have had personal bad experience with venus, I'll explain..... Zerolift......sent a guy a motor with broken stuff on it, and a thread was started on 240sxforums about it, on there they conducted themselves in a manner of a 2 year old, they wouldn't take care of him the way they should have, they wanted him to pay for shipping charges and a restocking fee, when being their fault they should have fixed their mistake. I would not buy from them ever. Flashoptions.....they are basically racinghard.com, which is a crap based malasian company that does bad business. In numerous threads on numerous forums they'll send pics of the same motor to different people who are buying, so one guys' motor is the same pic as the next. They sent I think it was Cameron of Night7 a video clip of their "many RB25DET clips" with a bunch of front cuts with the hoods down and actually showed only 2, which happen to be the same 2 pics that they send everyone else, he asked that they take pics of each motor with his name on it and they couldn't produce the pics. When/if they actually send you the motor, you'll get to wait anywhere from 4-9 months and have to pay about 1K extra in customs fee's which they forget to mention to you in the first place. I wouldn't buy from them EVER. Venus Auto......my first clip was amazing, came with after market parts on it, very clean, low miles, very happy at that point, I got boost happy and blew the RB20. Called and asked if they had any good long blocks lying around, they did, for 650 I got the long block and shipped, well I put it in my car, not testing it trusting their word, got everything hooked up EXACTLY the way it was from my first swap, and it didn't run, I do a comp test, 30 psi in all 6, I was confused, thinking how could a good long block be making 30psi comp, well i do a leak down test, leaking out the intake and exhaust valves over all 6, and leaking out the rings in all 6. I call them, and they said I had to pay for shipping both ways, as it's under warranty and they would replace it, I pissed and moaned til I got to finally talk to the owner, he agreed when I said; "why should I have to pay for your mistake" and told me the best he could do was pay for shipping on the way back to me, so I sent it out, I got my new one in and almost running, but they left the new one BARE, if I didn't have 2 boxes full of RB20 parts in my garage I would have been screwed, they didnt leave any plugs to keep water out of the cylinders, and the block was filled with water, it took 16 quarts to get the oil to look like oil, I did a comp check with the water/oil in it and it made 120 in all 6, with good oil it made 130, so things are looking good for this one. Moral is, I would not buy a long block from them, but I would buy a clip/motorset but under the condition that they show me results of leakdown and comp tests. Which also reminds me, they also claimed to have done a comp check on the motor I have now, and they said it made 150 in all 6, well the very first test I did it only made 80, 120, 90, 30, and I didnt even do the last 2 cause I was so pissed, I went out to video tape it and send it to them and it made 120, I assume the valves were sticking. But I would make damn sure that you have results first. As for who to buy from... I really don;t know, I know night7 has clips for sale, and if he does COD I would order from there, but only if due to complications had in the past. Good luck in finding a good place to buy from. If you need any tech/wiring help on the swap IM me at NISMObuttnutz or EMail me at Nismo241@comcast.net

01-14-2004, 07:04 AM	#8
Chas Guest Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Huntington Beach Posts: 2,566	Mckinney Motorsports.

01-14-2004, 07:18 AM	#9
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 125	300hp for $3000? It is definitely possible for a select few, but you need to be more realistic, or at least flexible. Three grand really is not much of a budget for any os the 240 swaps or turbo projects, andeven more inadequate for 300hp. Is your $3000 a constricting budget or just a "proof of dollar to horsepower" ratio you made up? It sounds like the former in this case, because if you were bent on the later, you would probably already know everything you need to to make it happen. Too many people think like: "I'm going to get this engine for $X, giving me X horsepower, then add XXX for $XXX and bring it up to XXXXXXX horsepower!" Well that equation just isn't how it works. Reliability, parts replacement, "over-precautionary parts for the future of this engine" (my personal adage) and good, well executed labor, all cost money. Cartune/Neishlin: Paid for my engine, transmission, and harness conversion upfront, for a specific clip they had in stock. Told them not to ship it until I had finished moving. I provided no shipping address. Two weeks later I got a tracking # for the engine, shipping address somewhere in Massachussetts. I immediately called them and told them about their mistake. Due to the fact that the engine was with a freight company somewhere, I didn't want anything to happen to it and had them send it to my friend's shop where I rent lift space. The engine arrived on a completely demolished palette with a dented oil pan, misssing MAFS, and no ECU. But the worst part is that they sent it "COD" for "computer parts" to the tune of $610 from LA to Santa Fe. It was pay that or lose the engine I already paid for. I wasn't present, so my friend decided to pay for the shipping for the time being. I called the company again, and they of course gave me the run around, as did the freight company, so there wasn't much I could do. Later i found out from a former employee that I was ripped off by their shady co-owner/shipping guy. The owner himself took absolutely no action to help me, probably quite aware of this. I gave up, but demanded the missing parts. After requesting them four times, I finally got them, once again COD. They make you pay for their mistakes every time. The ECU has no diagnostic port, just an empty slot and hole where they should be. Then came time for me to send out my harness. I found out that Ken from Motorex is the one who actually does most of their harness and wiring work. This is great because he has a rep as one of the best wiring gurus in So Cal. the bad part is that they took a month to do it. I am sure this has nothing to do with Ken, but rather slacking on Cartune/Neishlin's part. I got the harness back (COD), hooked it up, it didn't seem to be laid out correctly for the engine bay, but everything reaches. But no spark. Checked everything, but no avail. After alot of testing and trouble shooting, something appears to be fishy with the ignitor chip. i send it and the ECU back to be tested. After two and a half weeks of calling and nagging them (every transaction you have to call them long distance at least three times to get anything to happen, and the people you need to talk to are NEVER there) I finally demand that they test the ignitor right then and there. it's a bad ignitor. The same typically slow and annoying cycle continues until i get a good ignitor. The SR finally roars to life six months after I purchased it. If everything had been better, say from a different supplier, I would have completed it in no more than five days including all the upgrades i did.

01-14-2004, 01:22 PM	#10
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	I understand what your saying about the $XX=XXhp thing, and that does bug me too. I think 300 for 3000 IS obtainable if done correctly. By "correct" i mean tuning, tuning, tuning. My planned first mods are exhaust and intercooler. Then its all AFC, BC, and Cams. Oh, and BTW, that 3000 is not including dyno runs, which I plan on doing a lot of. I decided to get a local engine that is selling for ~900. That should help with my goal, i think, and allow for more upgrades.

01-14-2004, 02:42 PM	#12
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	I went to check out the motor, and it is complete. The only thing I wish it came with was a r32 crossmember, but alas, I will have to figure somethin out. Im thinking of maybe having mounts machined from a local shop. They gave reasonable quotes, unlike the peeps that want 500 bones for em. I understand your point about the turbo issue. All I can say is We will see what happens. Injectors are a must though, forgot about those, and also a fuel pump, and Z32 MAF. Im hoping dyno tuning will pick up where the stock turbo leaves off, and if I blow the snail in the process of finishing my little science experiment, oh well. The new one will definately make 300, and then Ill try 400 for 4000. Its just a goal, guys, and IMHO I think its feasible.

01-14-2004, 05:05 PM	#14
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	I am on the east Caost, which is both good (Unstable Hybrids, Enjuku) and bad (everyone else).

01-17-2004, 07:07 PM	#18
mudduck3006 king of the ricers! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: north carolina Posts: 104	www.japandirect.com they seem to be pretty staight up and decent prices but i have yet to get anything from them good luck bro.

01-17-2004, 07:17 PM	#19
sobe ... Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 520	eh...flashoption?...eh

01-18-2004, 08:15 AM	#20
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 125	Nismo 241: Just because you did yours for under $2k doesn't mean he will. He's talking about cams and forgetting about injector upgrades, which doesn't give me the impression he has everything worked out to reach his goal. At least I was trying to give him some constructive advice, insetad of putting down thers who were trying to help him. So why dont you help him out yourself if you know so much insetad of dissing me?

01-25-2004, 12:42 AM	#25
Skillzilla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 51	Sorry I was gone for so long...but anywho, Im back. First off, this thread was about Flashoption.com, or any other option for a motor .com out there. It was my fault for bringing up my "project" I have going. And to shed some light, I got my RB20 for 1k, and it is in great shape. Once it was mine, I took off the valve cover, checker the head, manually turned the crank, checked the turbo (which was brand new BTW. Thanks previous owner!!!), and inspected the tranny. Its all good to go. So thats $1000. For the other 2g's, we'll have to wait and see. Right now Im debating on doing the swap mysef or having someone do it. Im using complex algorithms and math analysis to weigh my non-existent free time against my stubborness about not spending over 3 grand. Right now, free time is winning. So, to all of you (especially Hokiruu), leave it alone. Its my car, my swap, my money. Let me do ehat I want. On a side note, I found a car to swap the RB into, a 89 hatch with a blown KA for 700 bones. The int./ext. are in better shape than my car, and it will allow me to have a ride as the work is goin on. Plus I can sell my current 240 when Im done and turn a profit, which means free money while staying under 3 g's. Score. And Nismo 241, what pointers do you have on the wap? Do you definately have to take your dash out? Thats what I am dreading. Well, its either that or labor charges. And get this: my local shop was going to charge me $700 labor for the swap. Not too bad. Then I told them the RB was already out of the front clip, and I was plannin on pulling the KA out of the donor car before the swap, in order to cut costs, since it would be a good 10 hours of labor at least for them to pull the two motors themselves. New labor charge: $700. Needless to say, those tools are getting none of my business or dollars.