is it difficult to turbo charge NA FC's?

944drifter · 08-26-2005, 12:52 AM

My question is just as the title states so I would like to know the right preperations and the costs of turboing a 1987 RX7 GXL and please dont flame I've done a search.

zack · 08-29-2005, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 944drifter

My question is just as the title states so I would like to know the right preperations and the costs of turboing a 1987 RX7 GXL and please dont flame I've done a search.

wouldn't it be cheaper just to buy a 13B motor from overseas. we get them here for like 3.5K so it works out to like 400 dollars

Velvet · 08-29-2005, 10:40 AM

I recomend a TII swap or a supercharger from this place if you dont feel like swapping the engine. http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/

RACETUNE · 09-04-2005, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 944drifter

My question is just as the title states so I would like to know the right preperations and the costs of turboing a 1987 RX7 GXL and please dont flame I've done a search.

Hi I recomend the T2 swap, it will be cheaper and will save you more time. Its better because you will have the right amount of fuel and a safer ignition timing under full load (compared over stock n/a ecu fuel system). If you are still interested pm me or email.

darkboricua · 09-12-2005, 04:58 PM

hey i have an 88 rx7 nonturbo and i wanted to do a TII swap but i dont know where i can get it from

su_maverick · 09-14-2005, 06:22 AM

seriously guys... try www.rx7club.com first for info, you might get a little more info... just maybe..

my suggestion is that if you are serious about building up a nice car, get a 3 rotor 20B and keep it NA. You can easily drop one into a FC and if you keep it NA you will have alot of power (250/260) and great throttle response.. just my .02

eastCoastMayhem · 09-22-2005, 07:46 AM

like maverick said, check rx7club.com. Theres excellent posts on turboing a n/a, lots of pics and details, everything you need to know. But like everyone else is saying its definatly easyer and more cost effective to just drop in a whole turbo2. Theres a few good importers of used jspec t2 engines in Canada, but shipping can be high.

Hollywood · 09-22-2005, 10:58 AM

I have had quite a few Rx7s, mostly FCs. in my opinion the best way to do this is to just buy a turbo II, you can get them now fairly cheap. if you are going to do the swap do it from a clip, that way you get all the sensors, harnes and ecu. I have seen those clips go for around $3500, then all you will need is a fuel pump.
if you just buy the motor set, you will likely spend weeks tracking down sensors ect. **the JDM motor is different then the USDM, different intake manifold, vac lines, different sensors** in this case it might be best to go stand alone.
***also, these are used rotary motors do not plan on them lasting more then a year***

it will be cheaper just to sell your car on ebay and buy a Turbo II

su_maverick · 09-22-2005, 11:25 AM

Thats why I suggested the 20B... it will be easier and you will be much more happy....

you can buy a good condition Turbo II for 4-5k and be done with it...
DO NOT GET A J-SPEC MOTOR!! they are worthless and abused. The only big difference is the lack of emissions on it. If you buy one, plan on rebuilding it in the near future.

AllMotorKing · 09-22-2005, 11:41 AM

how much are 3 rotor motors going for nowadays. i vote for the TII swap.

who's going to seven stock next month. i'm sure you will find vendors there that can get you any motor you want.

Bastard-FB · 09-22-2005, 02:01 PM

T2 swapp can be done for a reasonable price. I have been paying 1100.00 for complete engine w/ turbo intercooler and tranny. But you would also need the diff or have a driveshaft made. Or you could turbo your na, which can be done cheaply if you put the effort in. I turbo'd my gsl-se engine for under 1500.00, it made a stout 230whp 190wtq on 6psi. And it lasted for 30k on top of its 140k original miles.
Or you could just put a T2 engine with lightweight N/A flywheel to mate your na trans to the engine. which is my current setup in a 1st gen. If you go this route you can sell your trans for 300bills. I would also go standalone ecm, microtech being the cheapest and setup w/ base map, but little involved to tune. I would reccomend a haltech for ease of use, which is probably what i will be swapping to. In my old car on 8lbs i made 240whp @ 6500rpm and 200wtq from 2700rpm-6000rpm. In my new car at 4lbs of boost I currently make 200whp, which is alot of fun, just keep it flat footed all the time, even in transtions, which makes transtions so fast. Of yeah if you have properly setup engine it should last years when maintained.

su_maverick · 09-22-2005, 04:55 PM

The C,D, and E versions of the 20B are outragous but if you are going NA a A or B would be just fine. You can get one of those for about 3k...

eastCoastMayhem · 09-22-2005, 08:37 PM

Once again listen to maverick, i got a jspec engine and its just turned into a HUGE PROJECT, so many little issues to deal with, i mean i knew it would be, but its just so much easyer to get a USDM turbo2 car or just engine in your case for 2 grand or so and just rebuild the engine or have it rebuilt, thats the best route, very reliable if you keep the stock turbo on there. If you choose to get a jspec engine i would definatly get a stand alone ecu, microtech and haltech both make good units for the Fc. Also stay within your series, if you choose to do an engine swap definatly find a series 4 engine, its just much easyer that way.

driftfreak · 09-23-2005, 05:38 AM

there is allways the cheep option of droping a V8 of VG30 motor into an FC..
fairly painless ...

su_maverick · 09-23-2005, 08:09 AM

I think its been widely stated that you can drop just about anything into an FC.. aside from maybe a turbine engine...

IF you are going to go V8 then go with an LS1... its aluminum so it only weighs 10-20lbs more then a rotary+turbo..

driftfreak · 09-23-2005, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by su_maverick

I think its been widely stated that you can drop just about anything into an FC.. aside from maybe a turbine engine...

IF you are going to go V8 then go with an LS1... its aluminum so it only weighs 10-20lbs more then a rotary+turbo..

the reason i state this is that there is a small shop out that makes the cross members and tranny mouts to drop in small block V8s and VG30..for cheep
LS1 are cool but for the money i would go with a 5.0

GotNismo? · 09-23-2005, 09:56 PM

the ford 302 is a good reliable motor. the b16 of v8's lol they belong in mustangs tho, dont insult the japan-ness of the rx-7... im in agreement with maverick on this one tho. for the money you will spend on the turbo swap or turbo'ing the n/a motor (which happens to have higher compression which requires very specifically tuned engine management $$$$ to avoid running lean and in the end detonating) . the 20b is an engine with aalot more potential than the 12a/13b platforms. the increased displacement allows for close to double (give or take) the hp and more importantly the tourqe. all in all if your on a low to moderate budget and your trying to build a dd/race car stay away from turbo rotaries. unless thier were maintained well (which 90 % werent) or you have the money for a pineapple or atkins reman (mazda remans suck by the way) they're money pits. id say keep the n/a motor give it a moderate to large street port, premix, exhaust and intake. thats all you'll really need as far as power goes. or a n/a 20b if you know someone who can weld you up some mounts. or if you wanna be unique and unoriginal at the same time , toss an sr20 at it. you might even be able to keep the near perfect weight distribution. hmmmmmmm......

08-26-2005, 12:52 AM	#1
944drifter Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 29	is it difficult to turbo charge NA FC's? My question is just as the title states so I would like to know the right preperations and the costs of turboing a 1987 RX7 GXL and please dont flame I've done a search.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

08-29-2005, 10:40 AM	#3
Velvet I <3 Aiko Tanaka Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Brooklyn, New York Posts: 163	I recomend a TII swap or a supercharger from this place if you dont feel like swapping the engine. http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/

09-12-2005, 04:58 PM	#5
darkboricua Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: il Posts: 5	hey i have an 88 rx7 nonturbo and i wanted to do a TII swap but i dont know where i can get it from

09-14-2005, 06:22 AM	#6
su_maverick Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: North Jersey Posts: 232	seriously guys... try www.rx7club.com first for info, you might get a little more info... just maybe.. my suggestion is that if you are serious about building up a nice car, get a 3 rotor 20B and keep it NA. You can easily drop one into a FC and if you keep it NA you will have alot of power (250/260) and great throttle response.. just my .02

09-22-2005, 07:46 AM	#7
eastCoastMayhem Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: north east Posts: 62	like maverick said, check rx7club.com. Theres excellent posts on turboing a n/a, lots of pics and details, everything you need to know. But like everyone else is saying its definatly easyer and more cost effective to just drop in a whole turbo2. Theres a few good importers of used jspec t2 engines in Canada, but shipping can be high.

09-22-2005, 10:58 AM	#8
Hollywood Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Dallas Posts: 219	I have had quite a few Rx7s, mostly FCs. in my opinion the best way to do this is to just buy a turbo II, you can get them now fairly cheap. if you are going to do the swap do it from a clip, that way you get all the sensors, harnes and ecu. I have seen those clips go for around $3500, then all you will need is a fuel pump. if you just buy the motor set, you will likely spend weeks tracking down sensors ect. the JDM motor is different then the USDM, different intake manifold, vac lines, different sensors in this case it might be best to go stand alone. *also, these are used rotary motors do not plan on them lasting more then a year* it will be cheaper just to sell your car on ebay and buy a Turbo II

09-22-2005, 11:25 AM	#9
su_maverick Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: North Jersey Posts: 232	Thats why I suggested the 20B... it will be easier and you will be much more happy.... you can buy a good condition Turbo II for 4-5k and be done with it... DO NOT GET A J-SPEC MOTOR!! they are worthless and abused. The only big difference is the lack of emissions on it. If you buy one, plan on rebuilding it in the near future.

09-22-2005, 11:41 AM	#10
AllMotorKing Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 399	how much are 3 rotor motors going for nowadays. i vote for the TII swap. who's going to seven stock next month. i'm sure you will find vendors there that can get you any motor you want.

09-22-2005, 02:01 PM	#11
Bastard-FB User Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 8	T2 swapp can be done for a reasonable price. I have been paying 1100.00 for complete engine w/ turbo intercooler and tranny. But you would also need the diff or have a driveshaft made. Or you could turbo your na, which can be done cheaply if you put the effort in. I turbo'd my gsl-se engine for under 1500.00, it made a stout 230whp 190wtq on 6psi. And it lasted for 30k on top of its 140k original miles. Or you could just put a T2 engine with lightweight N/A flywheel to mate your na trans to the engine. which is my current setup in a 1st gen. If you go this route you can sell your trans for 300bills. I would also go standalone ecm, microtech being the cheapest and setup w/ base map, but little involved to tune. I would reccomend a haltech for ease of use, which is probably what i will be swapping to. In my old car on 8lbs i made 240whp @ 6500rpm and 200wtq from 2700rpm-6000rpm. In my new car at 4lbs of boost I currently make 200whp, which is alot of fun, just keep it flat footed all the time, even in transtions, which makes transtions so fast. Of yeah if you have properly setup engine it should last years when maintained.

09-22-2005, 04:55 PM	#12
su_maverick Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: North Jersey Posts: 232	The C,D, and E versions of the 20B are outragous but if you are going NA a A or B would be just fine. You can get one of those for about 3k...

09-22-2005, 08:37 PM	#13
eastCoastMayhem Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: north east Posts: 62	Once again listen to maverick, i got a jspec engine and its just turned into a HUGE PROJECT, so many little issues to deal with, i mean i knew it would be, but its just so much easyer to get a USDM turbo2 car or just engine in your case for 2 grand or so and just rebuild the engine or have it rebuilt, thats the best route, very reliable if you keep the stock turbo on there. If you choose to get a jspec engine i would definatly get a stand alone ecu, microtech and haltech both make good units for the Fc. Also stay within your series, if you choose to do an engine swap definatly find a series 4 engine, its just much easyer that way.

09-23-2005, 05:38 AM	#14
driftfreak Pita didnt like my avitar Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: El Cerrito, CA. (east bay SF) Posts: 266	there is allways the cheep option of droping a V8 of VG30 motor into an FC.. fairly painless ...

09-23-2005, 08:09 AM	#15
su_maverick Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: North Jersey Posts: 232	I think its been widely stated that you can drop just about anything into an FC.. aside from maybe a turbine engine... IF you are going to go V8 then go with an LS1... its aluminum so it only weighs 10-20lbs more then a rotary+turbo..

09-23-2005, 09:56 PM	#17
GotNismo? But officer i swear.... Join Date: May 2004 Location: New Orleans Posts: 234	the ford 302 is a good reliable motor. the b16 of v8's lol they belong in mustangs tho, dont insult the japan-ness of the rx-7... im in agreement with maverick on this one tho. for the money you will spend on the turbo swap or turbo'ing the n/a motor (which happens to have higher compression which requires very specifically tuned engine management $$$$ to avoid running lean and in the end detonating) . the 20b is an engine with aalot more potential than the 12a/13b platforms. the increased displacement allows for close to double (give or take) the hp and more importantly the tourqe. all in all if your on a low to moderate budget and your trying to build a dd/race car stay away from turbo rotaries. unless thier were maintained well (which 90 % werent) or you have the money for a pineapple or atkins reman (mazda remans suck by the way) they're money pits. id say keep the n/a motor give it a moderate to large street port, premix, exhaust and intake. thats all you'll really need as far as power goes. or a n/a 20b if you know someone who can weld you up some mounts. or if you wanna be unique and unoriginal at the same time , toss an sr20 at it. you might even be able to keep the near perfect weight distribution. hmmmmmmm......