VQ35 series help!

B.Young · 11-14-2009, 07:34 PM

I have a 2006 350Z and I'm looking for any help on rebuilding my VQ. The 06 manual 350Z I have has the variable intake and exhaust cams with the single intake port upper plenum. Any advice or assistance is greatly appreciated.

INFO · 11-14-2009, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

I have a 2006 350Z and I'm looking for any help on rebuilding my VQ. The 06 manual 350Z I have has the variable intake and exhaust cams with the single intake port upper plenum. Any advice or assistance is greatly appreciated.

1-have you competed a build in the past?
2-what is the goal of this rebuild? going to boost or keep it NA?
3-are you rebuilding the head?

5-what part of the build are you most concerned with?
6-and last, do you have access to the right tools?

B.Young · 11-16-2009, 11:34 PM

The engine has gone through a lot of BS and two rebuilds before, and I posted this because I'm tired of having problems that I can't figure out.

My friend at the local Nissan Dealership got me some time with a GTR Tech and they are helping me do this again, but the right way. So I'll be getting VQ 101 from them. I'm confident now that everything will be done right. If you want the history of the motor its a really long story, but I'll tell you if you want to know.

INFO · 11-17-2009, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

The engine has gone through a lot of BS and two rebuilds before, and I posted this because I'm tired of having problems that I can't figure out.

My friend at the local Nissan Dealership got me some time with a GTR Tech and they are helping me do this again, but the right way. So I'll be getting VQ 101 from them. I'm confident now that everything will be done right. If you want the history of the motor its a really long story, but I'll tell you if you want to know.

2 rebuilds?
what problems were you having?

any issues with the piston rings and clearance?

socalwrench · 11-17-2009, 05:38 PM

+1

What issues are you having? Two rebuilds? What's the the bore size?

B.Young · 11-17-2009, 10:48 PM

9/27/08 I spun a bearing in rod #1 drifting in Tucson. (video of the run @ myspace.com/BYDrifting)
The shop gave me a space, and I had to figure it out myself how to rebuild it with a Nissan Tech manual for my car. After much drama. I replaced the 1 rod and piston, turned the crank and got oversized bearings. I got it done with no oil leaks 4/11/09. I daily drove it. I drifted one Firebird event, and the Inland Grand Opening 4/27/09, and on the way back it started vibrating bad and smoking really bad.

The machine shop said the crank was cracked in four places and the rings were toast

. Why? I don't know it ran great those three weeks and it was like it gave up. So I invested in CP forged pistons (11:1 96mm) with rings, Eagle rods, ACL race bearings, ARP headstuds, new OEM crank, BC valve springs, and had the block machined with a torque plate. This time the in house Tech was going to put the together just the pistons, rods, and crank with the rings and bearings, then I assemble the rest. When I got to the oil pump it looked different and he said he "widened the outlet to help increase oil flow".

Well I put the rest together and on 07/17/09 it ran. The Dyno guy reflashed the ECU with the Revup software and bumped the redline to 8K. It ran great for two weeks. The rear seal leaked oil so I replaced it but I still get wierd oil leaks and I can't find them (leaking under load). Then codes P0011 and P0021 kept popping up. I tested everything, and even replaced the solenoids. I finally found that both oil cam seals in the cam covers was ripped in half.

I replaced them and the codes stopped , but they ripped again a month later. Plus there was a lot of noise starting to come from the front of the engine, but nobody could tell me what it was or passed it off as regular engine noise, but I knew that it was not normal, and I still get the same codes. After Proam in Irwindale, it got worse so I took it to my friend at the Nissan Dealer who introduced me to the GTR Techs they immediately said the intake cam gears are not working and they are not performing the advancing of the cams or are advancing too far. He said the oil cam seal debris could have got into the cam gear and clogged it, but I would have to take the engine apart to find out. Plus he said the "widening" of the oil pump was a very bad idea since the VQ's are sensitive to the oil pressure being perfect. (he didn't "widen" the flow going into the block so there is an obstruction). I got a spare complete VQ35DE from an 04' 350Z donated to me for parts. I plan on seeing if the intake cam gears are the same and replacing the oil pump too. That's where I'm at now waiting to get an engine stand and pull the motor out. I don't know what to do other than to start over and rebuild it again.

Sorry so long, but now you know.

INFO · 11-18-2009, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

9/27/08 I spun a bearing in rod #1 drifting in Tucson. (video of the run @ myspace.com/BYDrifting)
The shop gave me a space, and I had to figure it out myself how to rebuild it with a Nissan Tech manual for my car. After much drama. I replaced the 1 rod and piston, turned the crank and got oversized bearings. I got it done with no oil leaks 4/11/09. I daily drove it. I drifted one Firebird event, and the Inland Grand Opening 4/27/09, and on the way back it started vibrating bad and smoking really bad.

The machine shop said the crank was cracked in four places and the rings were toast

. Why? I don't know it ran great those three weeks and it was like it gave up. So I invested in CP forged pistons (11:1 96mm) with rings, Eagle rods, ACL race bearings, ARP headstuds, new OEM crank, BC valve springs, and had the block machined with a torque plate. This time the in house Tech was going to put the together just the pistons, rods, and crank with the rings and bearings, then I assemble the rest. When I got to the oil pump it looked different and he said he "widened the outlet to help increase oil flow".

Well I put the rest together and on 07/17/09 it ran. The Dyno guy reflashed the ECU with the Revup software and bumped the redline to 8K. It ran great for two weeks. The rear seal leaked oil so I replaced it but I still get wierd oil leaks and I can't find them (leaking under load). Then codes P0011 and P0021 kept popping up. I tested everything, and even replaced the solenoids. I finally found that both oil cam seals in the cam covers was ripped in half.

I replaced them and the codes stopped , but they ripped again a month later. Plus there was a lot of noise starting to come from the front of the engine, but nobody could tell me what it was or passed it off as regular engine noise, but I knew that it was not normal, and I still get the same codes. After Proam in Irwindale, it got worse so I took it to my friend at the Nissan Dealer who introduced me to the GTR Techs they immediately said the intake cam gears are not working and they are not performing the advancing of the cams or are advancing too far. He said the oil cam seal debris could have got into the cam gear and clogged it, but I would have to take the engine apart to find out. Plus he said the "widening" of the oil pump was a very bad idea since the VQ's are sensitive to the oil pressure being perfect. (he didn't "widen" the flow going into the block so there is an obstruction). I got a spare complete VQ35DE from an 04' 350Z donated to me for parts. I plan on seeing if the intake cam gears are the same and replacing the oil pump too. That's where I'm at now waiting to get an engine stand and pull the motor out. I don't know what to do other than to start over and rebuild it again.

Sorry so long, but now you know.

Rebuild #1
you installed the rings and they failed?
was this your first time installing rings?
how did you cut, measure and install them?

also, was this an N/A or boosted setup?

B.Young · 11-18-2009, 06:56 AM

Rebuild #1
The rings for piston #1 got damaged out of the engine (Sharing space with people that didn't pay attention). I was advised by their tech to get total seal rings and to just put them on and it will work fine. This is my first time for doing anything like this so thats why I ask them a lot of questions to make sure I'm doing it right. Now as for what they are telling I have to take faith. The rings in the rest of the pistons are the original ones. In rebuild #2 I watched him cut and measure the rings. I was advised to go for that piston to get good N/A power, and change the head gasket size to lower the ratio to around 10:1 whenever I get the money to boost.

INFO · 11-18-2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

Rebuild #1
The rings for piston #1 got damaged out of the engine (Sharing space with people that didn't pay attention). I was advised by their tech to get total seal rings and to just put them on and it will work fine. ..........In rebuild #2 I watched him cut and measure the rings.

Rebuild #1
To be clear, the rings were NEVER cut and measured?

Many new builders can have trouble getting even cuts the first time so you should practice on some junk rings and have a pro inspect your work.

ALSO, make sure you do NOT damage your rings during installation and get a good ring compressor, the adjustable ones are not as good.

INFO · 11-18-2009, 09:01 AM

where is rebuild #3 taking place? Which state?

B.Young · 11-18-2009, 09:23 AM

Yeah on build #1 the ring set on Piston #1 were not cut and measured. I didn't know about doing that, and I was told to just install them and nothing else otherwise if I was told to cut and measure I would learn on how to do so.

Rebuild #3 is going to be in my garage at home in Gilbert, Arizona. The reason the other builds took so long was that the shop closes at 6pm M-F and I can't get there till 4:30. Sometimes they close late, but not often. I used to take days off work unpaid to come in and try to finish up sooner, but that hurt to much financially after a while. My garage has plenty of room and I got an air compressor now. As for precision tools I'm not well equipped yet. So far its just the basic sets with a 1/2" air gun and air ratchet. I'm hoping to borrow what I need from friends.

INFO · 11-18-2009, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

Yeah on build #1 the ring set on Piston #1 were not cut and measured. I didn't know about doing that, and I was told to just install them and nothing else otherwise if I was told to cut and measure I would learn on how to do so.

we have documented ring cutting in our DVD series.
The RB Rebuild DVD has a Student/Teacher format.
http://store.driftingshop.com/rbmobudvdpa2.html

how will you be measuring your clearances?

B.Young · 11-18-2009, 10:37 AM

Very cool. Is there any plans on making a DVD for VQ's?

INFO · 11-18-2009, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

Very cool. Is there any plans on making a DVD for VQ's?

there was but schedule was never locked down

BandwagonS13 · 11-18-2009, 10:41 PM

You really should think about having someone with experiance build this motor, it is going to get really expensive other wise. How much power are you making? What fuel? What oil pan do you have? make sure you run the rev up oil pump not the standard DE (they both fit)

B.Young · 11-18-2009, 10:55 PM

What is the difference between the two oil pumps? The motor donated to me is an 04 350Z VQ35DE.

B.Young · 11-19-2009, 06:43 AM

It dyno'ed 255whp. Pump gas 91. APS oil pan with Fumoto oil drain valve.

B.Young · 01-13-2010, 12:38 PM

Got all the parts for the engine. I hope to be driving by Sunday.

a2low240 · 01-21-2010, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B.Young

It dyno'ed 255whp. Pump gas 91. APS oil pan with Fumoto oil drain valve.

This may be a stupid question but are you running an oil cooler or oil temp gauge?

B.Young · 01-26-2010, 10:57 AM

I don't have an external oil cooler. or an oil temp gauge. Thats on my list of things I need to to add in the future. The engine runs great now and no leaks, but I haven't drifted it yet. Friday there is a local event in Chandler AZ at Firebird Raceway. That will determine if everything is good.