new to the game

i have an 1988 rx7 13b n/a im new to the game and i would like to know necessary steps i need to take to get started.

and does anyone know any drift school/events in texas?

[Boyracer]

FC, nice. The biggest thing is seat-time, although welded/2-way diffs and decent suspension are always helpful.

So important I'll say it twice, seat-time.

[spiritofFC3s]

yea seat time is big. im not sure if you know initiating drift techniques if not check out the drift bible its a good foundation in my opinion. make sure your brake pads are good, try to get a limited slip asap, suspension, get dtss eliminators. start savin for an engine rebuild too if it hasnt been rebuilt within the last 60000 to 90000 miles and throw in a couple hundred more for a streetport. you dont need all this stuff right away, get familiar with ur fc then start upgrading so you can feel the difference. good luck man

mazdatrix.com, racingbeat.com

[driftiteasy0313]

where in texas?

[jefferz]

welded diff, suspension, seat, maybe a harness and def a set wheels drifting is all about style lol.

but the only way to get good at sliding is seat time.

[NoPistons!]

Diff, coilovers, seat and time in said seat any chance you get. All of those you can get on a budget. I got my bucket from ebay for under $150, welded my diff for free and paid like $500 for my jic coilovers. Night and day over stock and worth every penny. YOU can pay more, you can probably pay less depending on who you know and where you shop.

Oh, and make sure you do the reliability mods and such.... 3 stand out in my mind more than any others.

BANJO BOLT MOD: You replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail (you'll need to remove the upper intake manifold) with a banjo bolt. IIRC ihi water cooled turbo bolts work. That's what i'm using in my fuel rail. If the pulsation dampener fails and leaks....the possibility of engine fire is GREAT.


Pinion snubber: Truck bump stop. Drill a hole right above the nose of your diff, put the bump stop in. Keeps your diff from bouncing up during clutch kicks and snapping your front diff mount.


DTSS elims: Eliminates the "rear steer" effect on rx7's. Alot of people say they dont notice but i found it REALLY difficult to keep the car at the limit because of those stupid bushings in the rear assembly. It wont keep you from wrecking your car getting rid of the bushings but it helps make it more predictable which for a noob like you (and me) is a good thing.

For all three reliability mods, it will be under $100.

[Piner]

DTSS elims are a must on an FC, same with the rear subframe and diff mount bushings. They make a Huge difference.

After you get some seat time in you will want more steering angle. Since the FC is notorious for having no steering angle at all. You can either go with some steering spacers for your tie-rod ends or you can go with modded knuckles. The spacers only incrase angle but the knuckles increase angle decrease ackerman and quicken your steering ratio.

But to take full advantage of those mods you will have to run either lower offset front wheels or run pretty big spacers on the front.

Also I after you get the hang of the car pretty good try removing your rear sway bar altogether. Most People I know with FC's swear by it. I don't run one in my E36 either and it is amazing how much control you gain.