4-Point Strut Bar

Pacman · 10-17-2004, 08:46 PM

I was looking at the 4-point rear and front strut bars at CP Racing & Designs. Anyone deal with this place or there prducts? Whats the quality? Hows the fitment?
Website

GRiDRaceTech · 10-18-2004, 05:36 PM

I've heard the quality was pretty good, but the point of the added two braces is questionable. They bolt to the sheetmetal firewall and thus I can't imagine much rigidity to be gained.

I would rather have a stout "regular" strut tower brace or a Nismo Powerbrace.

Pacman · 10-20-2004, 06:24 PM

I thought that the firewall was the strongest part of the car. Nismo Powerbrace? I never heard or saw this before. Hmm

DriftGirl · 10-20-2004, 11:39 PM

Questionable? LoL!!

2 point strut tower bars are for looks mostly..yeah they work..kinda.

A 4pt / 3pt is a true brace. take a look at Autocross set-ups or any Pro car not powered by the 'Rice Generation' and you'll see what I mean.

Ive never seen that company but, Those are REAL braces and will out perform the 2pt cosmetic ones any time....

nice find, Im considering ordering sumthin from them

GRiDRaceTech · 10-21-2004, 08:28 PM

Ms. Thang, please don't fall off your high horse, we wouldn't want you to get all muddy, now would we?

Look at autocross setups and we see EXTREMELY STOUT braces that are incorporated into the roll cage. Sometimes they are triangulated into a reinforced steel piece which has been welded onto the firewall. That piece is not of sufficient diameter to make much of a difference. A name-brand two-point strut tower brace with three-bolt attachment on each tower will do the trick, without fatiguing the firewall.

Pacman · 10-21-2004, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GRiDRaceTech
A name-brand two-point strut tower brace with three-bolt attachment on each tower will do the trick, without fatiguing the firewall.

If its connected to the strut towers and the firewall, won't that equal it out, as in not fatiguing any part too much? I'm just learning suspension in Auto II (yes, some stupid high schooler

), and the teacher (who I regard highly; he knows his stuff) said in so many words that a 3- 4-point strut bar is far superior than a regular strut bar. I want to do the suspension first so this is one thing I'm looking at.

DriftGirl · 10-21-2004, 10:20 PM

LoL!! Dude stop givin bad advice if you dont know what you're talkin about.

Top to bottom
1- 4pt brace
2- 3pt Brace
3- SOLID 1 piece 2pt brace
4- Cheap 2pt brace with ANY bolts* holding it together (which is why you can find em on Ebay for 10 bucks)

In that order. #'s 1 & 2 are often up to debate since a triangle is the strongest load 'structure'.

Dont listen to dude, I dont know about other subjects, but on this one he's way off....

* Not the ones that bolt it o the car.

Pacman · 10-22-2004, 09:30 PM

I'm probably gonna go with these, not that expensive, and they seem to do the trick. I was going to find a Tomei 3-piont triangle one, but they are all used and I heard that they don't fit USDM cars (something about it hitting the brake and clutch lines?) and I don't want to pay $250+ for it when a 4-point is better. Thanks. Anything else, pleas dicuss.

GRiDRaceTech · 10-23-2004, 05:32 PM

If you want more than two attachment points, look elsewhere than CP Racing. I'm not saying their stuff sucks, I'm just saying it's not up to the quality of Cusco or Tomei. There's a reason the Japanese stuff costs more: it's better. (and it's imported. But it is truly better if it is a name brand) Read on.

Let me put it this way: You don't need a four-point strut brace. Use a very good quality name-brand strut tower brace, single-piece if you want maximum strength. (Okuyama Carbing is single-piece) Complement the strut tower brace with a Nismo Powerbrace on the underside (which will reinforce the tension rod mounts and the entire front subframe) and with SPL or Nams (Not CP Racing!!) fender braces and you'll be golden. Those fender braces will tighten up the front end far more than any extra mounting points of a strut tower brace, as they're tied into an extremely strong part of the vehicle's unibody. Yes, I know this will cost more than you want, but being cheap with chassis bracing isn't a bright idea. Then, go with a two-or-three-point rear strut tower brace, I'd recommend Cusco for the three-piece, as the CP Racing unit looks marginal. If you decide to go two-piece, I'd recommend the rear Okuyama Carbing brace, as it is one-piece like the front. Also, stiffen the rear subframe with upper and lower subframe braces from SPL. If you are going to track the car, get an Autopower rollcage or even a roll bar... either will increase structural rigidity by quite a bit.

Pacman · 10-24-2004, 12:49 PM

Hmm, I thought that those fender braces were just an ebay POS, not an actual suspension stiffener. It dodn't look like they did anything. I'm notof spending the money if its going to help out, so I'll look into a Cusco or similar brand. Yes, I want to occasionally to take the car to the track and not kill myself, but it also has to be streetable; should've mentioned that, too.

TokiEvolution · 10-24-2004, 01:50 PM

hey gridracetech do u have a web site i can order this from?

DriftGirl · 10-24-2004, 05:09 PM

LoL!! Repeated what I said

dont get caught up in that 'name brand' stuff. 90% of it is all the same. The adjustment bolts on a 2 point brace are its weakest points....thats ANY Brand, no matter what the bar is made of: Square, oval, boxed or channeled...all the same weak points.

As for the going back and forth on the subject: I currently have the only Stateside Soarer with rear bars and fender braces

The first 1uzfe specific Front STB.

They were made by MY company, designed by me.

Ive done my research and have BUILT performance parts...not to say that im an all out expert, but ive done more than read and buy.

They are in the typical 2pt configuration in Carbon Fiber wrapped steel....with adjustment bolts. They work better than stock, BUT a simple 1pc setup would out perform it and the 3 or 4pts would kill it.

It was simply made to 'work' and look good like 99% of the bars out there.

If you want it streetable id stay clear of the high performance stuff....no fun if its a daily driver

I can get you fender braces for S13 / S14 chassis

GRiDRaceTech · 10-24-2004, 08:53 PM

Pacman- The SPL fender braces are good, but Nams is the best. Good luck finding them, though.

Tokievolution- You can order Okuyama and SPL stuff from www.splparts.com. They're good guys. I'd also recommend www.phase2motortrend.com and www.hopupracing.com for parts.

brainfood · 10-30-2004, 12:30 AM

hey drift girl what brand fender bars can you get for the s14? I have been looking and have been having trouble finding a bar for the s14. Let me know brainfood@sbcglobal.net thx!

10-17-2004, 08:46 PM	#1
Pacman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NorCal Posts: 91	4-Point Strut Bar I was looking at the 4-point rear and front strut bars at CP Racing & Designs. Anyone deal with this place or there prducts? Whats the quality? Hows the fitment? Website Last edited by Pacman; 10-17-2004 at 08:49 PM.

10-20-2004, 11:39 PM	#4
DriftGirl HighSider Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Confused Posts: 745	Questionable? LoL!! 2 point strut tower bars are for looks mostly..yeah they work..kinda. A 4pt / 3pt is a true brace. take a look at Autocross set-ups or any Pro car not powered by the 'Rice Generation' and you'll see what I mean. Ive never seen that company but, Those are REAL braces and will out perform the 2pt cosmetic ones any time.... nice find, Im considering ordering sumthin from them Last edited by DriftGirl; 10-20-2004 at 11:41 PM.

10-21-2004, 10:20 PM	#7
DriftGirl HighSider Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Confused Posts: 745	LoL!! Dude stop givin bad advice if you dont know what you're talkin about. Top to bottom 1- 4pt brace 2- 3pt Brace 3- SOLID 1 piece 2pt brace 4- Cheap 2pt brace with ANY bolts* holding it together (which is why you can find em on Ebay for 10 bucks) In that order. #'s 1 & 2 are often up to debate since a triangle is the strongest load 'structure'. Dont listen to dude, I dont know about other subjects, but on this one he's way off.... * Not the ones that bolt it o the car. Last edited by DriftGirl; 10-21-2004 at 10:27 PM.

10-24-2004, 05:09 PM	#12
DriftGirl HighSider Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Confused Posts: 745	LoL!! Repeated what I said dont get caught up in that 'name brand' stuff. 90% of it is all the same. The adjustment bolts on a 2 point brace are its weakest points....thats ANY Brand, no matter what the bar is made of: Square, oval, boxed or channeled...all the same weak points. As for the going back and forth on the subject: I currently have the only Stateside Soarer with rear bars and fender braces The first 1uzfe specific Front STB. They were made by MY company, designed by me. Ive done my research and have BUILT performance parts...not to say that im an all out expert, but ive done more than read and buy. They are in the typical 2pt configuration in Carbon Fiber wrapped steel....with adjustment bolts. They work better than stock, BUT a simple 1pc setup would out perform it and the 3 or 4pts would kill it. It was simply made to 'work' and look good like 99% of the bars out there. If you want it streetable id stay clear of the high performance stuff....no fun if its a daily driver I can get you fender braces for S13 / S14 chassis Last edited by DriftGirl; 10-24-2004 at 05:11 PM.

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10-18-2004, 05:36 PM	#2
GRiDRaceTech Opposite Lock Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,096	I've heard the quality was pretty good, but the point of the added two braces is questionable. They bolt to the sheetmetal firewall and thus I can't imagine much rigidity to be gained. I would rather have a stout "regular" strut tower brace or a Nismo Powerbrace.

10-20-2004, 06:24 PM	#3
Pacman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NorCal Posts: 91	I thought that the firewall was the strongest part of the car. Nismo Powerbrace? I never heard or saw this before. Hmm

10-21-2004, 08:28 PM	#5
GRiDRaceTech Opposite Lock Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,096	Ms. Thang, please don't fall off your high horse, we wouldn't want you to get all muddy, now would we? Look at autocross setups and we see EXTREMELY STOUT braces that are incorporated into the roll cage. Sometimes they are triangulated into a reinforced steel piece which has been welded onto the firewall. That piece is not of sufficient diameter to make much of a difference. A name-brand two-point strut tower brace with three-bolt attachment on each tower will do the trick, without fatiguing the firewall.

10-22-2004, 09:30 PM	#8
Pacman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NorCal Posts: 91	I'm probably gonna go with these, not that expensive, and they seem to do the trick. I was going to find a Tomei 3-piont triangle one, but they are all used and I heard that they don't fit USDM cars (something about it hitting the brake and clutch lines?) and I don't want to pay $250+ for it when a 4-point is better. Thanks. Anything else, pleas dicuss.

10-23-2004, 05:32 PM	#9
GRiDRaceTech Opposite Lock Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,096	If you want more than two attachment points, look elsewhere than CP Racing. I'm not saying their stuff sucks, I'm just saying it's not up to the quality of Cusco or Tomei. There's a reason the Japanese stuff costs more: it's better. (and it's imported. But it is truly better if it is a name brand) Read on. Let me put it this way: You don't need a four-point strut brace. Use a very good quality name-brand strut tower brace, single-piece if you want maximum strength. (Okuyama Carbing is single-piece) Complement the strut tower brace with a Nismo Powerbrace on the underside (which will reinforce the tension rod mounts and the entire front subframe) and with SPL or Nams (Not CP Racing!!) fender braces and you'll be golden. Those fender braces will tighten up the front end far more than any extra mounting points of a strut tower brace, as they're tied into an extremely strong part of the vehicle's unibody. Yes, I know this will cost more than you want, but being cheap with chassis bracing isn't a bright idea. Then, go with a two-or-three-point rear strut tower brace, I'd recommend Cusco for the three-piece, as the CP Racing unit looks marginal. If you decide to go two-piece, I'd recommend the rear Okuyama Carbing brace, as it is one-piece like the front. Also, stiffen the rear subframe with upper and lower subframe braces from SPL. If you are going to track the car, get an Autopower rollcage or even a roll bar... either will increase structural rigidity by quite a bit.

10-24-2004, 12:49 PM	#10
Pacman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NorCal Posts: 91	Hmm, I thought that those fender braces were just an ebay POS, not an actual suspension stiffener. It dodn't look like they did anything. I'm notof spending the money if its going to help out, so I'll look into a Cusco or similar brand. Yes, I want to occasionally to take the car to the track and not kill myself, but it also has to be streetable; should've mentioned that, too.

10-24-2004, 01:50 PM	#11
TokiEvolution Newbie Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 67	hey gridracetech do u have a web site i can order this from?

10-24-2004, 08:53 PM	#13
GRiDRaceTech Opposite Lock Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,096	Pacman- The SPL fender braces are good, but Nams is the best. Good luck finding them, though. Tokievolution- You can order Okuyama and SPL stuff from www.splparts.com. They're good guys. I'd also recommend www.phase2motortrend.com and www.hopupracing.com for parts.

10-30-2004, 12:30 AM	#14
brainfood Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 667	hey drift girl what brand fender bars can you get for the s14? I have been looking and have been having trouble finding a bar for the s14. Let me know brainfood@sbcglobal.net thx!